Tig and Mig are two different beats. Yes, you can zero gap (aka butt weld) with Tig more precisely than Mig.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/thr ... ap.485765/

viewtopic.php?p=216488#p216488

Doright wrote:I liked that Last video

Gap, no Gap, I would say if your gonna use a Gap it should equal your wire thickness.
Just My opinion.
I myself wont use a Gap as a general rule, Not for thin sheet metal And personal only use a Mig on stuff thats impossible to get at with my Tig and or is a Lap weld or structural stuff. Mig does have its place.

Wire thickness - some like .023, I myself like .030 wire.
Some like ER70s-2 some like ER70s-3 I myself use ER70s-6 for general purpose uses and prefer ER70s-G for Auto sheet metal in general if I have to use a Mig.
Just like Gasses I know some guys that like Pure carbon dioxide and Some like a 70/30 mix I myself use an 80/20 mix.
Then theirs Trimming your Cup some like electrode where the wire comes out recessed inside the Cup I like it to Be flush.
Then their is Wire Stick out of the Wire some like 1/4" some like an 1/8" or some where in between.
Then theirs Torch angles and Pushing or Pulling the Puddle Their is no right or wrong really when it comes to Pushing or Pulling But they are two completely different techniques.

Welding - I think we can all agree "What works for one person doesn't work for all!"

xF100x wrote:Tig and Mig are two different beats. Yes, you can zero gap (aka butt weld) with Tig more precisely than Mig.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/thr ... ap.485765/

viewtopic.php?p=216488#p216488

Doright wrote:I liked that Last video

Gap, no Gap, I would say if your gonna use a Gap it should equal your wire thickness.
Just My opinion.
I myself wont use a Gap as a general rule, Not for thin sheet metal And personal only use a Mig on stuff thats impossible to get at with my Tig and or is a Lap weld or structural stuff. Mig does have its place.

Wire thickness - some like .023, I myself like .030 wire.
Some like ER70s-2 some like ER70s-3 I myself use ER70s-6 for general purpose uses and prefer ER70s-G for Auto sheet metal in general if I have to use a Mig.
Just like Gasses I know some guys that like Pure carbon dioxide and Some like a 70/30 mix I myself use an 80/20 mix.
Then theirs Trimming your Cup some like electrode where the wire comes out recessed inside the Cup I like it to Be flush.
Then their is Wire Stick out of the Wire some like 1/4" some like an 1/8" or some where in between.
Then theirs Torch angles and Pushing or Pulling the Puddle Their is no right or wrong really when it comes to Pushing or Pulling But they are two completely different techniques.

Welding - I think we can all agree "What works for one person doesn't work for all!"

Your beating yourself on the head and getting flattened with an Anvil..... You know what? we should back up here on this discussion..... Are we Talking about BUTT welds ? or Lap welds??? or Structure welds? or Penetration? which Technique Mig, Tig or Gas ???? I'm lost!??? what are you confused about how Can I help?

I just wrote a long reply then realized I am not even sure what the confusion is about let alone what the topic is any more so I deleted it. I am getting old lol



I have screwed up so much sheet metal figuring out what works best for me!!!!
If I can help I will try! what works for me may not work for you! I have many many hours of experience behind a Torch, Metal work is my thing I love it but I have to admit its a love Hate relationship.
The Best Teacher is experience!!!!!!!!!!!! Get out their and Lay some beads!!!!!
Their is no amount of reading that will make you a better welder you have to get out their and Burn some metal!
I remember in Welding school the class room tech was a 15 min discussion maybe a video then off to the weld shop where we would weld for 8 hrs a day for weeks.

xF100x wrote:Tig and Mig are two different beats. Yes, you can zero gap (aka butt weld) with Tig more precisely than Mig.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/thr ... ap.485765/

I looked at that thread its all over the place, their were some good suggestions but those didn't get much traction.

A pic is worth a thousand words

ZERO GAP! & loose the Mig! on skin panel repairs. Weld don't Tack!

Doright wrote:

xF100x wrote:Tig and Mig are two different beats. Yes, you can zero gap (aka butt weld) with Tig more precisely than Mig.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/thr ... ap.485765/

I looked at that thread its all over the place, their were some good suggestions but those didn't get much traction.

A pic is worth a thousand words

ZERO GAP! & loose the Mig! on skin panel repairs. Weld don't Tack!

MIG versus TIG welding, it's worth noting a few key points. Firstly, when working with MIG welding, it's generally recommended to tack and cool the metal periodically to mitigate the risk of warping due to the relatively high heat input. On the other hand, TIG welding offers more precise control over the heat, thanks to its lower heat input and the ability to adjust amperage mid-weld. This control can often allow for continuous welding without the same level of warping concern, making it ideal for projects requiring precision, especially on thinner materials or delicate metals like aluminum and stainless steel.

As someone who considers themselves a novice and a hobbyist, I'm still learning the ropes. However, from what I've gathered in discussions with more seasoned welders, opinions on the use of MIG vs. TIG welding can vary significantly. Some professionals might lean towards MIG for its speed in certain applications, while others prefer TIG for the quality and precision it offers. Not everyone has TIG.

It's fascinating to see how varied techniques and preferences can be within the welding community, and I'm keen to learn more from the experiences of others in this forum.

Dont get me wrong MIG has its place! I use it a lot! Just not on Skin panels.

How cheap does a good machine have to be?

$550
https://www.everlastgenerators.com/prod ... -i-tig-201

Another fantastic machine that I personally have, I paid much more for this machine when it first came out. https://www.everlastgenerators.com/prod ... rtig-250ex

It's not a Miller BUT mine has lasted longer than the warranty of 5 years and its still going strong, with a U.S. based repair center and parts supply house.
I would not hesitate to buy another Everlast welder

xF100x wrote:

Doright wrote:

xF100x wrote:Tig and Mig are two different beats. Yes, you can zero gap (aka butt weld) with Tig more precisely than Mig.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/thr ... ap.485765/

I looked at that thread its all over the place, their were some good suggestions but those didn't get much traction.

A pic is worth a thousand words

ZERO GAP! & loose the Mig! on skin panel repairs. Weld don't Tack!

MIG versus TIG welding, it's worth noting a few key points. Firstly, when working with MIG welding, it's generally recommended to tack and cool the metal periodically to mitigate the risk of warping due to the relatively high heat input. On the other hand, TIG welding offers more precise control over the heat, thanks to its lower heat input and the ability to adjust amperage mid-weld. This control can ofthen allow for continuous welding witout the same level of warping concern,

Mig Tack and Cool technique to mitigate warping: Good luck with that!
The best way to mitigate Warping is to avoid it to begin with learn what you can and can not do with the equipment you have.

The idea of cooling weld bead to prevent warping is a internet fairy tale! Once you ZAP the weld bead the heat is their You put it in your not going to undo its effects by cooling it. NO AMOUNT OF COOLING WILL UNDO THE EFFECTS OF HEAT WARPING, NONE! Only a hammer and dolly can undo that.

TIG welding DOES offer more precise control over the heat, BY PIN POINTING THE HEAT and YES you do have the ability to adjust amperage mid-weld This control DOES allow for continuous welding BUT not for control of Warping.

The best part of Tig welding panels is the weld bead is soft like Gas welding and its Malleable unlike Mig weld which is Rock hard and is not as Malleable, it can be over worked quickly and it can crack.

There are only four things you can do to metal: cut it, bend it, shrink it, and stretch it all of which can be done by hand.
In general, the hotter you get metal, the more it will eventually shrink. Remember, metal will initially expand when you heat it. As you hammer a nearly liquid-hot bead against a dolly, you are simply forcing the molecules into a smaller area The more you hammer on dolly it will stretch.

I strongly suggest learning Shrinking and stretching by Hand.