Hi everyone

I’ve watched this forum for a while and have gotten lots of good info to tackle other projects. Now I’m working on repairing rust on a 67 barracuda notchback rear window. As seen in the pictures there is some pitted rust and holes in the seam where the dutchman panel and body comes together along with the window channel. I’d like to make a patch panel to replace the rusty metal, treat and prime but having a hard time figuring out how to tackle the rust in the seam.

Anyone fix a seam like this and have any good pointers?

Thanks everyone

Have you checked AMD site for replacement corners and panel?

I used their metal to fix my '68 GTX:






viewtopic.php?f=12&t=27038

That looks good. No patch panels for that area are made for a notchback.

I'm wondering if you couldn't get something close and modify it to fit?

What does your rear deck panel measure length and width?

Sometimes, I carefully cut the rusted area out and then use that piece as a guide in fabricating a patch panel.

Cut out the bad.

Hand formed the new piece for zero Gap as best I could.

Welded in and ground and sanded down.
I did both sides both were about the same didn't get pics of other side.

Misc. Rust repair pieces made by hand, I like to use the Cardboard from Beer 12 packs or soda 12 packs, Its easy to shape and holds a shape, after you have a good template of part lay it over your flat steel cut it out then make bends as necessary. file edges true to original cut out with ZERO gap and weld it in. Always use ZERO gap!

I usually always Tig weld Patches The window frame was Tig welded These other pieces were Mig welded in. I was being Lazy I guess that day.

[quote="Doright"][/quote]

Nice, cardboard works and it's free. I use butterboard if needed, get it wet and holds it's shape after dried.

I cut and butt, usually a 1/16 inch or thickness of wire zero gap there isn't penetration like there should be. Also Fitzee's Fabrications and Bad Chad recommend.

Doright wrote:Misc. Rust repair pieces made by hand, I like to use the Cardboard from Beer 12 packs or soda 12 packs, Its easy to shape and holds a shape, after you have a good template of part lay it over your flat steel cut it out then make bends as necessary. file edges true to original cut out with ZERO gap and weld it in. Always use ZERO gap!

I usually always Tig weld Patches The window frame was Tig welded These other pieces were Mig welded in. I was being Lazy I guess that day.

Yeah, that's what I was talking about.

Good job Dennis! That's the right way.
And DO NOT listen to Bad Cad! Besides getting the "gap issue" wrong, he pretty much does everything wrong! Go for zero gap and set your heat/wire setting correctly. Gaps are for guys who can't set up the welder right, or weld good.

chopolds wrote:Good job Dennis! That's the right way.
And DO NOT listen to Bad Cad! Besides getting the "gap issue" wrong, he pretty much does everything wrong! Go for zero gap and set your heat/wire setting correctly. Gaps are for guys who can't set up the welder right, or weld good.

Ya when Bad Chad was mentioned I just cringed!!!!!
Then what was said about Gap & penetration I again cringed.

A Mig can do the work, BUT the preferred method is Gas welding followed closely by Tig welding.

When your welding with Gas or Tig It can be done with Zero filler rod resulting in a True fusion weld which is true 100% penetration and a weld Bead that is soft and can be planished out for a true invisible repair.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnnY3v1Ufks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rv5bKXJ3kEM

Dont get me wrong Mig has its place, I use it a lot.
A good restorer knows how to use each method and when to use each.