what am i doing wrong.... [wetsand/buff]

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 4552
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 7:00 pm
Location: central Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 8:20 am
Hey, 68 what do you notice as a difference between the 105 and that 100.....just curious. I've still got a lot of paint/panel correction ahead of me on the Fiero project.....might be worth a look.....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 7116
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 2:43 pm
I used this on the 62 Chevy truck done in SPI Dark Red and Tamco glamour clear.
The M100 is not white, rather a bluish color, it doesn't cake up and you can work it a lot longer than the 105.
Definitely reminds me of the Chemical Guys products, only IMHO it cuts better and is less money. I used the Megs 100 on a wool pad and followed with the Chemical Guys with an orange foam pad. Wanted to see if the Chemical Guys product improved the look but didn't notice much difference.
That's about all the buffing I did on this Truck since the owner didn't want to go any further since it is a driver.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 4552
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 7:00 pm
Location: central Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2018 10:20 pm
I think I'm going to get some.....like the ability to work it longer........
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



No Turning Back
Posts: 922
Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2011 2:16 pm
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 11:00 am
DarrelK wrote:I think I'm going to get some.....like the ability to work it longer........


that right there is gonna sell me on M100.

back 10-12 years ago the m105 had a nice work time to it. dont know what they change but it sure dusts up quick- especially in warmer weather.

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 7116
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 3:07 pm
I'm pretty confident you will like it. Please post up your thoughts either way.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 4552
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 7:00 pm
Location: central Ohio
Country:
USA
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 5:21 pm
tomsteve, yeah, I'd agree with the M105 reacting differently to warm weather. One of the first nights I used it my shop was on the cool side. A few weeks later we were going through a kind of heat wave especially at night when I like to work. Temps. were still in the mid 80s at midnight. It was "handling" differently and definitely needed more cleaning of the pad now and then.
Yeah, it' already in the mail along with a new twisted wool pad as mine was wearing down somewhat. Still okay for furniture finishes but auto clears, uh, not so much....
I'll let you know what I think......
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



Settled In
Posts: 28
Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2017 11:00 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:32 pm
ok.. so ive;
flattened it all back down with 600.
resprayed 2 coats.
(using the directional method)
wet sanded with 1500 ///
wet sanded with 2000 \\\
wet sanded with 3000///

im about to go test compound on a rear qtr... wish me luck!
I think im going to use the Chemical guys line first.. I like how its workable for longer than the meguiars line.

ill be back with some pics. good or bad LOL



Settled In
Posts: 28
Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2017 11:00 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 1:16 pm
welp… something is still wrong.
still have large deep scratches spider webbing on the panel I tested on yesterday... car looks good in low light, but once sunlight hits it or flashlight... all these scratches show up.

heres the section I tested on using the chemical guys line. (also tested in front of the wheel well with the meguiars line)
Image




Results in brighter light vs lower light:
Image

Image




Now the scratches:
if you look in the reflection in the garage door opening on the right side you will see some significant scratches running diagonally...these scratches show up a lot through out the panel in all directions.
Image


This is a pic of one of several DEEP scratches... theyre tricky to get on camera.
Image


these scratches look way deeper than 1500. so where are they coming from? as far as im aware the paint will cover 600 scratches and that's what I sand with. after painting I started with 1500. do I need to go all the way back down to primer?

--edit--
just had a thought.. could the brand of sandpaper be the issue...I know different brands are better than others but could the lower quality brands REALISTICALLY cause this bad of scratches? I used the brand eastwood sells on the primer. but bought this cheaper stuff for the higher grits/wet color sanding; https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Assort ... =sandpaper mostly because it came in a set with all the grits I needed.
Last edited by d3r on Wed Jul 11, 2018 1:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar

Board Moderator
Posts: 7116
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Location: ARIZONA
PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 1:54 pm
Rotary Buffer, twisted wool pad and Megs 100 (preferred) or 105 will take those scratches out and clean up the surface. Scratches are in your clear coat.

Option two: wet sand just that area with 2000 to remove the scratches and rebuff.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



Settled In
Posts: 28
Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2017 11:00 am

Country:
USA
PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 2:02 pm
Thanks so much for all your guys thoughts.. for real. I bit off way more than I can chew for my first ever body project LOL (car was in a garage fire) but its getting there.

I edited the post up there with a thought about the sand paper I used. I used higher grade stuff for the primer but needed higher grits for the color sand so I bought this cheaper stuff https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Assort ... =sandpaper (mostly because It came in a set with everything I needed) I know some brands are way better than others but realistically would it cause this much scratch damage?

I will try a wool pad.. I don't have m100 and don't think anywhere local sells it.. but I do have M105.

there is no separate clear coat on the car.. just whatever integrated "clear" that's in the eastwood single stage paints.



--edit--
so I went out and tracked down some 3m paper.. holy cow the quality is night and day! I will be SHOCKED if the paper wasn't most of(if not all) the cause of my issues. I will report back in a few days when I get back to the buffing stage.

message to the lurkers: SPEND THE MONEY ON QUALITY PAPER.. I will from now on.
PreviousNext

Return to Cut, Buff, Polish & Detail

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests