Keep sanding the orange peel? When to Stop?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2024 12:47 pm
hello, I sprayed additional clear on my project and have sanded with 1000grit.

Is the level of peel acceptable or should I keep going until completely gone?

thanks!
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2024 2:56 pm
Simple Man wrote:hello, I sprayed additional clear on my project and have sanded with 1000grit.

Is the level of peel acceptable or should I keep going until completely gone?

thanks!
As long as I know I have enough clear on it, I sand with 1200 wet until all the peel is gone and then go over it with 1500, 2000 and finish with 2500 then go to my compounds and polish. So far my stuff comes out nice doing it this way--other more experienced Guys might have other methods but I always try to get al the peel sanded down.



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2024 4:03 pm
Rebel Racing wrote:
Simple Man wrote:hello, I sprayed additional clear on my project and have sanded with 1000grit.

Is the level of peel acceptable or should I keep going until completely gone?

thanks!
As long as I know I have enough clear on it, I sand with 1200 wet until all the peel is gone and then go over it with 1500, 2000 and finish with 2500 then go to my compounds and polish. So far my stuff comes out nice doing it this way--other more experienced Guys might have other methods but I always try to get al the peel sanded down.


thanks Rebel

I should have enough clear on,

The car is white. I think I will add some guide coat powder to make it easier to see the small pits.

I'm using the 3m Trizact system. Would a DA with interface pad and 800 be a good starting place? The 1000 took a while because my spray technique isn't that great

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2024 4:45 pm
Simple Man wrote:Would a DA with interface pad and 800 be a good starting place?


I'm with Rebel. Start with P1200 wet on a small, very rigid block. Usually I start with P1500, but I can spray fairly flat and don't need the extra cutting power. Some go to P1000 but you really have to know that you've put enough clear on to have room for this grit and the extra removal that comes with the next couple of stages, especially if you've already hit it with P1000. The Trizact pads are too soft to just take off the highs IMHO. Once you have it flat then go to Trizact, if you like, but be very careful of pigtails if using a DA.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2024 8:06 pm
Think of orange peel as tiny mountain peaks that need to be brought down to valley level.
This is why you should use a rigid block on your first round of sanding.

Those with plenty of experience have reduced those mountain peaks to tiny hills.

Also, coats of clear vary in thickness based on the guy spraying it. So if you were spraying light coats you may need 4 or 5 to ensure removal of orange peel will leave plenty of clear to protect your base coat.

Now some of us spray wet coats of clear. Meaning we are in the borderline runs range.
It takes practice and consistency to lay down a coat that flows out nicely and doesn't run. 3 of those types of coats puts plenty of clear on the car and as stated above reduces the amount of sanding necessary to remove any orange peel.

Do a Search and you find pictures posted that show the different stages. And yes, you do need any shiny spots gone if you want that mirror like finish on your car.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2024 8:40 pm
NFT5 wrote:
Simple Man wrote:Would a DA with interface pad and 800 be a good starting place?


I'm with Rebel. Start with P1200 wet on a small, very rigid block. Usually I start with P1500, but I can spray fairly flat and don't need the extra cutting power. Some go to P1000 but you really have to know that you've put enough clear on to have room for this grit and the extra removal that comes with the next couple of stages, especially if you've already hit it with P1000. The Trizact pads are too soft to just take off the highs IMHO. Once you have it flat then go to Trizact, if you like, but be very careful of pigtails if using a DA.


I suk at laying clear on 65% of this car. Need more consistency. I had cleared the car 2 years ago. I fixed my burn throughs using techniques found here on this site, used an airbrush. I put a lot of clear on this time.

I didnt have any 600 wet paper, and as you correctly stated the pigtails with dry, are an issue. So I used the trizact 1000 wet, and I was able to remove the orange peel. Thank for your help appreciate it



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PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2024 8:56 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Think of orange peel as tiny mountain peaks that need to be brought down to valley level.
This is why you should use a rigid block on your first round of sanding.

Those with plenty of experience have reduced those mountain peaks to tiny hills.

Also, coats of clear vary in thickness based on the guy spraying it. So if you were spraying light coats you may need 4 or 5 to ensure removal of orange peel will leave plenty of clear to protect your base coat.

Now some of us spray wet coats of clear. Meaning we are in the borderline runs range.
It takes practice and consistency to lay down a coat that flows out nicely and doesn't run. 3 of those types of coats puts plenty of clear on the car and as stated above reduces the amount of sanding necessary to remove any orange peel.

Do a Search and you find pictures posted that show the different stages. And yes, you do need any shiny spots gone if you want that mirror like finish on your car.


Hello, I have followed your technique for handling the burn through worked great!
I hope I don't have to use them again! but we will see.

Before I fixed the burn throughs, I flattened the existing clear with 600 dry, then I sprayed multiple coats of clear. Some panels were great some not so great.

I have a lot of sanding ahead of me, I take it panel by panel, it is rewarding when it turns out smooth. Wish I sprayed clear better. I just don't have the experience to be consistent at this time.

Appreciate the help!

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