When you have a big fat edge that you're doing a blend on (clearcoat) whats the best way to polish? I just did a spoiler, top surface only, and it has a thick round edge on which I needed to bury some raised paint edges. I just loaded up the clear and buffed the edge carefully (electric rotary), any tips?

I'm gonna try more praying next time I buff edges... I was doing something similar Sat., buffing a tight, tough edge on my bike fairing, when the 8" wheel caught another part, torqued sideways, ripppppppppp against the grain and burned a nice quarter sized hole in an otherwise semi-decent new paint job. I think I'm going to look for a smaller, more manageable wheel, and not use a cutting pad near any edges next time. I'd love to hear a better answer on this one.

Chris

Yeah, I would like to hear more on this subject too. I was thinking about using some of those face buffs (the ones that Eastwood sells) on an in-line air drill (lower speed than a die grinder or typical rotary electric). Anybody out there got some tricks???

Daaaaamn... I got a "just pray", and a "good question" for replies!

Hehe.

What I did was use a foam pad at 1000RPM, just the very side edge of it lightly on the edge of the peice. It worked out somewhat OK but bit a couple times and didn't seem safe, especially with a small amount of clear.

Ha! sorry man, I wish I had the skill level to do better with this kind of problem. I've tried using a polishing pad on my D/A to be less aggressive, and been successful in not hurting the paint, but I can't really get the shine to pop that way either. Slowing the rotary down is probably a good step in the right direction. But ultimately, I'll probably work to do better at limiting my orangepeel on tricky bike parts and maybe avoid radical edge buffing.

Chris

one thing that will help ALL of you trying to buff motorcycle or small car parts, is:

put the buffer in a vice, pad down, and hold the part in your hand, working it up against the pad.

this is even good for large fairing pieces, as you have MUCH more control, holding the 8oz part, as opposed to the 7lb torquey buffer.

I place a sleeping bag over some foam around the area, so in case the buffer "grabs" a part and slings it at 142MPH, it wont get damaged. (rare, if you use the following:)

I only buff on the right side of the buffer pad, working the piece away from me, and to the right, (the buffer is facing you, and the pad is moving around back at you and to your left) so it has less chance of "grabbing" with this set up,
it's a little difficult to explain, but put your buffer in the shop vice, and practice on something old and worthless, and you'll see exactly what I mean.

I have used this technique for "flash buffing" an edge: microfinishing compound, FOAM PAD, SLOW BUFFER (1200rpm) then spraying water, then a quick "pop, pop, pop", with the part in your hand, against the spinning pad, moving down the edge quickly, so your never on the same spot for more than half a second. you can repeat this several times until the sanding scratches are gone, and you have a nice glossy edge.
I almost NEVER blow through en edge when I use this technique, and it would work GREAT for abberants spoiler, or mirrors, headlight doors, gas cap panels, fairing ducts, etc,....

for recessed holes, (like ducts and air scoops), I use a "wheel buffing kit"
it has a velcro backed 3" rotary buffer pad and two wool, and three foam pads in the kit. for deep holes I made a long 8" extension on a lathe, so the pad is spinning 9" below the buffer, and I can reach inside the duct to polish the visible area below the parts surface, tape the edges when doin this, so if you accidentally touch the spinning extension rod on the duct opening, you dont damage THAT edge.

I always shoot the clear on the edges very thickly if I know I'll be doing this later on.

Obviously you aren't going to be holding a car door in your hands, and try this, but for light parts, or tricky edges and ridges, you have so much more control, it makes you much more confident in buffing, all the way around.

Thanks, that was informative

I recently used a dremmel multi tool to do the corners. It has vari speed and is easy to control. Worked fine!

I like to use my mini angle grinder i have 3 inch velcro back i use a wool and foam.It takes a little practice because the tool spins fast so i feather the trigger and that help`s control it better.My co-worker has a mini air buffer and it works good to.