Recommendations for basic buffing materials

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 10:13 am
Apologies if there is a post laying this out already but I couldn't find it specifically.

In the process of painting an old Vette and I need to start thinking about the buffing and polishing materials for it. There is a huge amount of information and it's a bit overwhelming to me since this is my first project. Not trying to achieve show quality results, just something a new hobbyist can be proud to drive.

Can anyone give me a simple list of the compounds, polishes, and pads I should be acquiring? The paint is a semi metallic Nason Ful Base. I know it's not the high end paint but too late to switch now. I'm using the Nason clear as well. A recommendation for buffers would also be appreciated.

Been reading all the posts on techniques but my head is spinning on all the different products out there and I didn't want to waste all my money buying too much stuff. I take it some products are better suited for different types of clear and some products might give better results but are more difficult or time consuming to work with?

Not afraid of the time or work involved but since I am so new at this, probably better that I stick with things that will be more forgiving.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 10:46 am
viewtopic.php?t=10555&highlight=buffathon

Right now I use in order:
Meguiar's 105 100% twisted wool pad
Meguiar's 205 Lake Country White Foam pad
Menzerna 85RD (now called SF 4500) Lake Country Black Foam pad

There are many other products that work well so it becomes a matter of preference much like selection of primer, paint and filler.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 11:59 am
Your buffathon post is a great post but my head was starting to hurt with all the choices out there. I was starting to get the impression that some products were designed for specific clear coats. One of the best bits of information I got that I could immediately use was the use of the halogens. I have pretty good lighting in my garage but after throwing out a couple halogens, I started seeing so much more detail. May kill my electric bill but they are worth every penny.

Thanks for the break down of what your currently using. I'll start picking these things up. Couple more questions if I can trouble you further:

1) Would a couple pads of each be fine for this small car? Not sure how quickly they get used up.

2) Should I get a gallon of each polish or is that way too much? I might not be ready for my second project for another year and I imagine some of these products have a short shelf life.

3) For the delicate or hard to reach areas, can the buffing also be done by hand in these areas or do folks usually just ignore these tiny areas and focus on the large surfaces?

4) A bit off topic but when sanding before buffing, can a DA sander be used or should it be done only by hand blocking? I've seen a few mentions of this but I wasn't sure if it was something only a true pro should attempt.

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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 4:42 pm
DA color sanding takes some practice and for a newbie I would suggest doing it by hand so as to avoid costly mistakes.
1 of each pad will last for multiple jobs
1qt of compound will last a long time (sealed properly the shelf life is almost indefinite)
ALL body lines, panel/door edges, etc. are prone to burn through due to the clear being much thinner in those areas.
Anything the pad might "catch on" can cause a problem before you can react to it.
Approach edges with the pad spinning "off" the edge and not into it.
They make mini-buffers and balls for the tight spots but I generally try to spray the clear really slick in those areas and avoid them when sanding and buffing.

Here's a link with some good information and supplies: http://www.autogeek.net/bupo.html
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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