Clear not "Shiny" a week after cut/buff

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 9:06 am
Hey everyone, so I have a few jobs under my belt and I am noticing that my clear isnt "shiny" a week or so after a cut/buff. The initial look is great after buffing and polishing, but after a week of the car sitting outside...kinda looks not shiny...

Is this due to removing some of the UV protection that clear offers while we cut/buff? Or am I just crazy?

Anyone else deal with this?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 9:29 am
Dieback. Not due to loss of UV protection; many reasons this can happen, starting at the primer application.

Let it sit out in the sun for awhile then buff it out again and hope it stays glossy.



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:27 am
So what is the process to make sure dieback doesn't happen again?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 8:41 am
From the Troubleshooting Guide

LOSS OF GLOSS
(Hazing, Dulling, Dieback, Matting, Weathering)
A dulling of the gloss as the film dries or ages.



CAUSE_____________________________________________________
(A) Topcoat applied in heavy, wet coats.
(B) Inadequate flash time between coats.
(C) Insufficient film thickness of topcoat color or clearcoat.
(D) Insufficient drying/curling of undercoats before applying topcoats.
(E) Using a poor grade and/or too fast evaporating thinner/reducer for spray conditions.
(F) Improper cleaning of the substrate.
(G) Insufficient air movement during and after application.
(H) Spraying over a deteriorated or solvent sensitive substrate finish without proper priming or sealing procedures.
(I) Natural weathering of the finish.

REPAIR _________________________________________
(1) Allow finish to cure thoroughly, compound or polish to restore gloss.
(2) Or, sand and refinish.

PREVENTION______________________________________________
(A) Apply the topcoat according to product label directions using the recommended gun set-up and air pressure.
(B) Allow all coatings sufficient flash between coats.
(C) Apply sufficient number of coats to achieve recommended proper film thickness.
Check with film thickness gauge if possible.
(D) Allow undercoats to thoroughly dry/cure before topcoating.
(E) Select recommended thinner/reducer based on temperature, humidity, air movement, and size of repair.
(F) Clean substrate thoroughly before and after sanding.
(G) For air dry situations: (1) allow exhaust fan to run 40 minutes or longer after spraying; (2) open booth doors after finish is dust free; and (3) maintain a shop temperature of 60 degrees fahrenheit or above, especially when drying overnight.
(H) For maximum holdout, use a premium two component undercoat system.
(I) Properly wash and care for the finish on a regular basis.
(J) Using premium topcoat color or clearcoat system will provide maximum gloss and
durability.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 9:04 am
Great INFO! Where is this list of knowledge at? I thought I have found all the list of goodies already.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 6:40 pm
Google this: Sherwin Williams automotive refinishing troubleshooting guide.

Should come up at top of search results. At some point we ought to add a sticky or article for important links...



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 11:24 am
It could be that it was not polished enough. I have had the final glazing polish hide fine scratches and rain wash it off only to see haze reappear a short time later.



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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 8:25 am
Just wanted to wrap this thread up in case someone has the same problem and is still wondering if the above advice is accurate.

IT IS 100% accurate. I just did another job where I took my time (TAKE YOUR DAG GUM TIME) and didnt rush the flash time. I stuck to the tech sheets, and a few times waited about 5-10 minutes longer.

It has been a few days now, no dieback, no loss of gloss. The job before this showed immediate loss of glass within a few days.

Trust me people...stick to the tech sheets.

STICK TO THEM!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 11:58 pm
Crzymoe wrote:Just wanted to wrap this thread up in case someone has the same problem and is still wondering if the above advice is accurate.

IT IS 100% accurate. I just did another job where I took my time (TAKE YOUR DAG GUM TIME) and didnt rush the flash time. I stuck to the tech sheets, and a few times waited about 5-10 minutes longer.

It has been a few days now, no dieback, no loss of gloss. The job before this showed immediate loss of glass within a few days.

Trust me people...stick to the tech sheets.

STICK TO THEM!


Where are the tech sheets?
Fly like a butterfly, sting like a bee.



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 11:27 am
Tech Sheets. the data label either found online or most likely on the can of paint itself. It will let you know the temp rang, mixing ratio, flash times...sometimes they will let you know specific prep steps and after care steps...shelf life...all kinds of goodies.

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