Wet sanding clear with orange peel

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 6:50 pm
I have begun to wet sand and just working on a fender. I have hit it with 1500 and 2000 so far. I am posting a picture, it feels very smooth but not sure if I have sanded enough. I put down 3 coats of clear and plan on still sanding with 3000 and then meguiars 105 & 205 with a DA.

Another question, if areas of the car are do not have "errors" can just sand the places that do with the above method then do the entire car with the cutting and buffing?

Thank you

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 11:36 pm
Not sure how many coats of clear you have on there but here's what I would suggest.
Start with 1000 grit on a hard block and wet sand a 12" x 12" section at a time until it is flat with no shiny spots or orange peel left.
This panel still has orange peel and it will show when buffed out:
Image


This is from a speck of dust embedded in the clear:
Image


This is the panel ready to move to 1500:
Image


The key is to remove all the 1000 grit scratches with 1500 before stepping up to 2000, etc.
Keeping some clean water in a spray bottle and a rag or squeegee to wipe the panel dry will help you see your progress.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 5:06 am
Thank you, I was kind of assuming that. I didnt want to sand too far so I thoguht I would ask. I have 3 coats of clear so I think I have some room, I have some 1000 so I will start from there.

Robert

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 9:53 am
Once you are done with the 1000 grit on a hard block you can change to a rubber sanding block with subsequent grits. Even a soft block with 2000 is fine.
The 1000 grit on the hard block gets the surface flat and orange peel free. The 1500, 2000, etc. are only refining the scratches to a point where they will buff out easily.
Remember that the clear is thinner along edges and body lines so be very careful or avoid them with the 1000 grit. This is a time consuming step so be patient and check your work often.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 5:15 pm
Thank you that makes a lot of sense. I am trying to stay away from the edges as best as possible as well. I have to find some 1000 for my board.

The 1000 is still wet sanded correct?

I am taking my time as well, just doing small areas at a time.

Thank you for replying!!!

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 8:54 pm
Yes.
I use a small piece of 1" x 2" Oak about 4" long. Put a couple of drops of dish soap in your water bucket and soak your paper first.
Like always be prepared to change the paper when it stops cutting.
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2016 5:53 am
From the pictures, those panels still have some peel left, so you have to keep sanding those areas if not you will see the peel after you polish it.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 10:03 am
So.... what is the process of respraying a sand through???? LOL On the fenders of my Mustang there is a body line right near the fender opening I sanded through, also on the fender extensions (which I painted separately so I think I did not paint as well as the rest of the car).

Should I do the whole panel from the top (the sand through is on the side)

Should paint the entire fender? To prevent tape lines?

The fender extensions should be a little easier as they are "separate" from the car.

How do I learn about blending?

Should I continue to sanding the rest of the car with the 1000 on up to see if I need more repairs?

The 1000 has made it a lot easier even though it feels like an additional step, the paint is starting to look more like the pictures 68 posted. I have about half the car done and am not sure if I should hold and repaint or continue and repaint as I near the buffing/cutting stage.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 5:13 pm
Finish the sanding and take care of the repair work when done.
The repair process will depend on whether you catalyzed your base coat or not and how far you sanded through. Is it to the base, primer or metal?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 6:22 am
It is to the primer, I did a black epoxy primer. I was focusing on the wheel opening lip by hand and hit the line right above it, will get some pictures when I am closer to the repair. It was quite defeating to see that. I have a couple of small imperfections I still have to get with the 1000 and begin with the 2000. I did a small area with the 2000 and I can see what you are referring to with removing the sanding lines from the 1000. Much easier and faster. I did pay attention to color of what I have been sanding and everything has been a "milky white". Feels like I am going to sand the clear right off. It is also uncomfortable to see the edges clear and the rest sanded, I am going with faith that what I am doing will bring the body to same as the edges.
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