I will be spraying a bc/cc metallic, never sprayed bc/cc before, I have sprayed acrylic enamel. I am planning on OP and runs in the clear having never sprayed it before. Planning to have 1000,1500,2000,2500 & 3000 on hand to wet sand, is 7-8 9x11 sheets enough for each grit to do a Ford Ranger? I also have a PC orbital polisher I'm planning to use a orange pad with Meguaries 105 after the 3000 grit then white pad with Meguaries 205 then not sure on the last polish/glaze? Suggestions for the final polish pad color and brand of polish, will Meguaries mirror glaze work? Anything I am missing? Are the thin dura blocks to hard to use for sanding the clear coat? How about using a thick piece of leather as a block? This truck will be a daily driver so perfection is not the goal, but mediocrity will not work either.
Thanks,
First cut and buff please critique my plan.
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I would clear the truck.
Sand 800 Reclear Cut 1500,2000,3000 M105 then 205 Experienced Trained Certified
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Dave, can you explain more why I would use 800 then reclear? I'm sure 800 will get rid of OP and dirt runs etc but I'm guessing I will just have them agian when I respray. How many coats of clear before the 800? Thanks, |
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A couple of reasons I can think of...
More material so you don't burn thru to the BC during cut and buff. And when you are done there will be enough clear left for UV protection. Clear over clear flows out very nice. I would suggest you spray a couple of spare parts to get the the hang of it. If done right you might be OK without the cut and buff. |
what bob said above. it will give you extra clear for you to cut and buff and more UV protection. it would be wise for you to do it this way.
three coats of clear. sand 800 and two or three more coats. you will need to be careful clear will really flow on cut clear but you will be happy you did. Experienced Trained Certified
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Thanks everyone, not being familiar with clear I didn't know it flows better over cut clear.
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I agree. And starting with 1500 is a lot of work. You'll want to go down to 800 - this will make your life MUCH easier. Just got to watch the edges etc. Will cut/burn through much easier.
If you started with 1500, it's like sanding with notebook paper! |
What has been said above is all good.
You will want to use a hard block on the first stage of the cut and buff. The idea is to get the panel flat (i.e. no urethane wave or orange peel) and from there your are basically refining the scratches. Here's a picture of what orange peel will look like when you start sanding: All the shiny spots need to go hence the recommendation that you put at least 3 coats of clear on before the sanding stage. It can get nerve wracking enough worrying about sanding through so extra clear on there gives some peace of mind. Once the orange peel is gone: Your next job is to get rid of the 800 grit scratches, then move up the scale making sure all the previous grit scratches are gone. Sanding in a 45 degree direction with one grit and the opposite 45 degree direction on the next higher grit can help with this. It will form little X s as indicators. Once all the scratches are going in the same direction you move up to the next grit. Though once you get into the higher grits it is more difficult to see. I find the Megs 105 on a twisted wool pad cleans things up rather quickly once you are above 1500 grit. I usually go over it again with Megs 105 on a foam pad and then move to the 205 on a foam pad. When going the extra mile I use Menzerna 85rd (I think its called Super Finish Plus SF-3800 now) and a grey pad to remove any swirl marks. Notice no halo scratches around reflection of sun: 1968 Coronet R/T
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