Cut and Buff Not Going So Well

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 6:58 pm
Just an opinion.... but I think learning to spray is more like "plug and play" and learning to cut and buff is like a cross between science, art, and skill. I learned to spray in less than a few months. That was like 45 years ago. I think I am STILL picking up things with the cut and buff process..... :lol:
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 9:02 pm
I was just reading a thread discussing using guide coat on the first two steps of sanding clear.
3M Dry Guide Coat is applied with an applicator pad. They spread it over the entire car and sand with 800 - 1000 to remove the guide coat which insures all the orange peel is gone. Then reapply the guide coat and sand with 1200 - 1500 until the guide coat is gone thus ensuring all the scratches are removed. After that there is no need for the guide coat.
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ACTS 16:31

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 11:14 pm
Yeah, I think that's the further evolution of the old time guys using the pounce bag (chalk dust) to get clears ultra level. Makes sense.....
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 1:18 pm
I plan to try it on the next paint job I do. Hopefully next month some time.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 11:25 pm
I'd really be interested to see the results with that. Honestly, I've been thinking about doing this on our highest end table tops that we occasionally do in ultra high gloss/cut and buff.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 7:22 am
Dry guide coat is like $35. But it probably lasts a long time tho.

Would be nice to be sure you got 100% of a run or other imperfection out before the next step.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 10:12 am
I use the 3M Dry guide coat and one container will last through 3 complete cars. A little goes a long way as all you need is to see the darker color when sanding. It works wet or dry as well.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 4:45 pm
Dry guide coats are worth it, if you ask me.....
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 9:39 am
I hesitate to reply as I've lurked on here before but have not posted.
I quit using wool buffs some time ago and now use foam pads or hybrid wool pad on special occasion. I recently had to buff out some Tamco 2021 clear on the roof of a 53 Hudson we had painted. For some reason that particular surface was really hard and even a wool buff would not cut it very well. I would up with a hybrid wool pad and Merzana 300 for the first buff and then used foam pad from there on out. Merzana 400 next then Merzana 3500 to finish. Also quit using my rotary buffer and bought a forced rotation Flex 3401, man what a difference. I won't go back to using the rotary buffer and I have used one for years. I learned most of my "modern" buffing techniques and supplies from reading over at the AutoGeek site. Very good info, learned a lot.
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finish buff
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color sanding up to 3000 gt
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 12:17 pm
I have been a fan of Menzerna products for quite a few years now.
Did you use the 300 with a wool pad and not have it cut?
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