Questions about dealing w/ runs & polishing oil based paint?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 1:13 pm
I sprayed the front cab of my 83 Toyota pickup yesterday with white gloss oil based enamel. I thinned with acetone and the temps were in the high 60's. It was my first time using an HVLP gun so I have a few runs to deal with.

Here are my questions, please...

1) Since this was oil base paint, do you have any suggestions for the best way to deal with the runs and polish it?

2) How long should I wait before doing this?

Thanks.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 5:12 pm
Just want to make sure I'm clear on this.....You used an oil based enamel house paint on your car?
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 5:16 pm
DarrelK wrote:Just want to make sure I'm clear on this.....You used an oil based enamel house paint on your car?


No, it was NOT house paint.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 5:29 pm
Okay, so what was it? What brand? If you can give me a brand I can search out the P. sheet on it. Just guessing initially but if you're highs were only in the 60's what were the lows like after the shoot? Most of these type paints dry by oxidation which means they react with the air. If that air is cold or damp it greatly extends the time for you to do anything with it. How soft is it now...can you still get a fingernail to print in it? And sorry, about the house paint comment but you'd be surprised at what guys put on cars around here.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 5:57 pm
DarrelK wrote:Okay, so what was it? What brand? If you can give me a brand I can search out the P. sheet on it. Just guessing initially but if you're highs were only in the 60's what were the lows like after the shoot? Most of these type paints dry by oxidation which means they react with the air. If that air is cold or damp it greatly extends the time for you to do anything with it. How soft is it now...can you still get a fingernail to print in it? And sorry, about the house paint comment but you'd be surprised at what guys put on cars around here.


No offense taken at all and I appreciate you taking the time to reply. When I think of house paint I think about the stuff you paint walls with, but I dunno, maybe this is "house paint"?? I know someone that painted their truck with the same stuff and color and it still looks great even though it's been outside uncovered for 8 years.

Temps dropped to high 50's last night but I'm near the coast so there is humidity. It's dry to the touch but pressing a fingernail into it will leave a little indentation.

Reading from the can... Rustoleum White Gloss Professional High Performance Protective Enamel, for metal substrates only, oil-based, 242256 Gloss White. You can see it here http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-P ... /202067151

Maybe this is the info you're looking for http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfIma ... 9d8ea8.pdf

Thank you.
Last edited by magentawave on Mon Apr 24, 2017 7:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 6:05 pm
Yep, house paint basically. Long oil drier alkyd paint. Let me double check some tech. sheets from the farm implement people on this.... and I'll jump back on here with some advice....
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 10:27 pm
Okay, yeah this is pretty much what I thought. And just to clarify I consider anything you'd buy at Home Depot, Lowes, etc., instead of an automotive paint supplier a "house paint." Long oil alkyds are pretty much a shoot it and forget paint that is autoxidative, or in simple terms it drys and cures with the surrounding air itself after shooting. Almost all the automotive paints in use work by a catalyst/hardener that is added so we don't depend on air temp.s, humidity, etc. for drying or curing although temperature is still a factor. If you had coolish and those temps. you will be extending the dry times by possibly a few days but it should continue to harden and cure. As for taking care of runs, I'd wait till that fingernail test barely dents it then go to a hard block with some 320 to 400 P sandpaper and see if it will block down. I would think you'd probably have to respray that panel because I just don't know how well this stuff is going to buff back up. I mean sure after sanding the runs down you could certainly give it a try. I'd probably be using something like 3M Super Duty compound on a twisted wool pad, but that's just me.
Oh, and that one link is just the MSDS sheets which are disclosures for shop safety. This is the P. sheet which outlines how the product is used/performs etc..... http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfIma ... ba83e4.pdf
Based on that sheet I would consider that you should put on about 3 coats of it if you want durability. Those coats must have a minimum of 24 hours apart in good conditions. On the plus side that product does tolerate low temps. and high humidity better than most of these long oil paints.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 2:43 pm
Is a "twisted wool pad" the same thing as steel wool? If so, would you use 0000 super fine?

Thanks again.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:32 pm
No, twisted wool is twisted lambs wool pads used on a rotary buffer. Don't even consider touching a long oil dryer coating like this with steel wool. The steel threads will break off in your coating making a real mess of things.... Do yourself a favor here and get into the Info Center here and read the Basics of painting. Personally, I don't think you've got much to work with here, but hey, maybe, if the stuff gets hard enough you can at least block it down and add more coating.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 12:18 pm
I used to shoot lacquer all the time when I was a cabinetmaker. So easy. Get a run or something weird, wait a couple minutes, sand it off and fog over it and it looks perfect. But because I sprayed this with oil based paint, I'm going to have to sand and paint it again. Aaargh!

Thanks for your comments.
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