Time frame for cut and buff?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2017 10:15 am
Thanks Darrell, you pretty much have me convinced to re-shoot it. I'm going to wait until it's all put back together. I think it will be much easier to mask off that way too.

I do have one more question for you though. I remember someone telling me when I shoot the doors and fenders I should stand them up like they would be when mounted on the car or my colors may not match? My brain does not comprehend that? Yellow is yellow, why should that matter? If I have them laying flat I feel much more confident in getting a smooth finish, especially with the clear..

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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2017 12:26 pm
Yeah, you wont' like me but there is some truth to doing that way, especially if you are not an experienced shooter. And yeah, yellow is yellow and all that but shooting surfaces "as they are seen" makes for more consistency in not just the base coat itself but the depth of image impact the clear has on that color as well. You'd think red was red, too (no flake) but I had shot the rear of a fiberglass kit car and had the fiberglass bumper laying down about 2 feet from the rear of the car. I mean it was like shoot the car, turn around and shoot the bumper. I had full coverage on both, same clear coats on both. But I'm assuming I must have somewhat flooded my clear on the bumper when it was laying there. I picked it up a few hours later and the color wasn't off much but it was off just a little. That was a long time ago (20 years!) and the directional thing isn't that big of a deal now..... but....
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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2017 12:40 pm
Well guess I'm propping them up when I shoot them. the hood however I should shoot laying flat, like it would be on the car, right?

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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2017 10:35 pm
Yep, horizontal for the hood..... Just pretend the car is together.....surfaces as you see them...
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PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 3:43 pm
Thanks Darrell.

Since I am going to be painting the doors and other panels within the next few days I am going to plan on three coats of clear to give me ample room for cut and buff. Do I have to worry about solvent pop? Not exactly sure what that is but it can't be good .

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PostPosted: Tue May 16, 2017 9:37 pm
Solvent pop is more about rushing flash times. Don't just go with the flash minimums listed on the product sheet. Your sheet says 5 to 7 minutes....just guessing but you've probably heard about problems with this particular clear because those are very short flash times. Solvent pop occurs because the previous clear coat has not given off the majority of gas that it needs to before the next clear goes on.... Irregularities in the base coat/body work can also somewhat trap pockets of gas as well. Big advantage now is you are well above anything like that with your clear already sealing that stuff off. Maybe try a 10 minute flash. Personally, I've gotten solvent pop before....it's not that big of a deal to fix.....looking kind of like a micro dimple in the clear. You can usually just mix up some more clear and fill up the dimples with a toothpick/micro brush before you do your cut and buff and cut them level with the rest of the clear coat.
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