Dry spray clear fix

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 1:21 pm
So I get the car painted last night and everything went great, the first 2 coats of clear looked very nice, found 1 drip/sag that I figured no problem repairing.

Then..... I went to spray the last coat, I knew I the booth was not exchanging air very well, so I am about a 1/3rd into it and notice my mask getting tight with breathing and knew it was just getting clogged so what did I do... I continued fast and sometimes almost blind to over-spray in the booth. I realized I really screwed up a simple clean up job to now, very much a repair.

A large amount of the clear is textured now, I am using Tamco 2100, what is the time frame for cutting and buffing on this clear? I ask because I am about to begin my 4 day workweek and can get to it like next Wednesday at least to wet sand. There is 2 really heavy coats that came out almost glass, in hindsight I should have just left it alone and just buffed the clear, my mind was fixated on having 3 coats due to my previous experience.

Also is there a good detailed record of the steps for wet sanding to final buffing? I have picked up pieces here and there but nothing really step by step. thanks



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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 1:37 pm
Just my opinion, but I would suggest you carefully sand out the texture and spray 1 or 2 more coats of clear.



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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 6:09 pm
This is some of the best pictures I could get. Very frustrating to say the least. Is it better to let the clear cure some. I know tamco sheets say wait at least 24 hours.
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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 8:55 pm
BeoBob's got the best plan of action. :goodjob:
Wait 24 hours, sand the orange peel off, clean and prep then shoot a wet coat of clear and let it flash the required amount of time and then shoot another wet coat. It is critical to let the first coat flash or you will have clear running on the floor.
You can't be in a hurry doing any of this stuff.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 11:10 pm
Thank you. So what grit should I go with or process?

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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 8:37 am
That depends on how much clear you put on there.
You could go as low as 400 grit but must remember that the goal is to just remove the orange peel. The surface will look dull with no shiny spots.

Think of orange peel as little hills with valleys in between. You are only trying to remove the hills to level with the valleys.

Sand throughs happen quickly if your clear is too thin and you get aggressive with 400 grit. You could start with 1000 and see how it goes and then drop down to 800, 600, or 400 if necessary.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 11:28 am
Thank you 68 so if I can get away with the 400 (because I have that in long board style on hand) do I need to follow up with a finer grit prior to the respray? Do I do the edge with red pads? Thank you!

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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 1:22 pm
Remember you don't need to sand like its body filler. Clear will knock down pretty quickly.
Yes, dulling the clear with a Scotchbrite pad will work for edges and difficult to reach spots. Again, don't get overly aggressive.
Clear will fill the 400 scratches if you shoot it properly. You have to lay it on wet enough to flow but not so wet it runs.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 2:46 pm
Okay, I will start with 1000 see how that does and go from there. I am about to start my 4 day work week (12 hr shifts) so will see what works best and begin on Tuesday sanding. Thank you again!



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PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2017 12:04 am
Sorry for all the questions, I did attempt to see how the different grits would work on the clear. Does all the high/low spots need to be perfectly flat? Just worried about sanding through and wanted to make sure of how much to sand.

68 you also stated to let the clear flash, in the sheets it states 5-10 min 1 and 2nd coats, 30-40min on the third. Assuming these are cured, should I still follow the 5-10 min flash times?

Thank you!!!
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