Orange Peel matchup to Factory

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 8:47 pm
20170820_145309.jpg
Attached is my first HLVP gun spray job. The metallics did not match like the factory finish and don't shine like the factory. Did I miss something in my spraying? With the orange peel effect, its close I think but I believe it can be a little more smoother. To the touch the clearcoat feels really nice, actually nicer then factory so I don't know if the basecoat is where my orange peel is or if it is actually my clearcoat. If anyone has any advice please advise. I don't want to color sand since it does look fairly good for my first job.
Last edited by coindex765 on Thu Aug 24, 2017 9:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 9:37 pm
Several issues then....first, getting a metallic to "orient" itself like the factory shot is something that is more "learned" as you get experience under your belt. It may even involve more of a "drop coat" to get the look near the end of color..... Now texture....Your orange peel...well at least looking at the images reflected back in that bedside is huge and pretty mottled. You should have gotten much better flow out of your clear as that's your problem. That clear really needs to be knocked down flatter. What was your cut and buff methods used on the clear?
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 9:46 pm
I have not done any cut and buffing yet on my clear. I have 5 coats of clear on the truck quarter panel. The clear feels flat to the touch when I rub my hand across it, this is why I don't know if the orange peel was in the clear or the base. If I need to cut and buff it I will then start with 1500 work my way to 3000 with rubbing compound then to a finishing compound. I also used a Omni base factory metallic black with Omni clearcoat PPG.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 7:59 am
Your orange peel that you "see" is in your clear. Although you can definitely have orange peel in color/base it is somewhat broken up by metallic. What you are color sanding for is the "image" that reflects off the surface. Most people will "feel" a clearcoat surface as smooth but once you have some experience you'll know more what you are looking for....
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 11:27 am
Any advice on color sanding. Should I start at 1500 grit or go to 1000 grit? I have read a lot regarding the process, some say sand to 2000 some mention up to 5000 grit. I gather I should start with a rubbing compound then to a buffing compound then final polish correct?



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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 12:56 pm
coindex765 wrote:Any advice on color sanding. Should I start at 1500 grit or go to 1000 grit? I have read a lot regarding the process, some say sand to 2000 some mention up to 5000 grit. I gather I should start with a rubbing compound then to a buffing compound then final polish correct?


personally, when on new clear and not factory,if i have some OP, i start at 1000 grit - sanding in one direction like ////////.
then switch to 1200 and change directions like \\\\\\\\\\.
then 1500 opposite direction again. i can see if im removing the scratches from the previous grit.
then onto a cutting compound. for me thats meguiars m105
after refining with that, onto a finishing compound. for me thats meguiars m205.
im not able to bake a job, so no wax after that- just a glaze. wax after 90 ish days.
what do ya have for a buffer?

on the metallic and shine not matching:
getting metallic to match can be difficult. lots of times its necessary to blend into an adjoining panel.
i might not recall correctly here, but if i do recall correctly, even that can be difficult if the fresh paint being sprayed is from a different manufacturer that the factory paint- like using sherwin williams on a vehicle with PPG? something about different suppliers for pigments and different solids count?

anyways, just myself, but any times ive done just a panel, the only way to get the gloss to match was buffing the entire vehicle.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 3:46 pm
Yep, tomsteve pretty much hit the highlights of the way I do this most of the time. Looking at the pic. I'd definitely start that at 1000. You need to get that flattened if you want good results up in the buffing stages.
Again, on metallic, there's just a lot of variables with gun settings and yes, different manufacturers base as well as even paint code variants. Many, years ago I came to this web site so I could "master" metallics as I had always shot solid colors most of my life. I was only on here about 6 months or so and felt confident enough to move on to candy work and custom stuff. You just need to get more experience.....
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 4:44 pm
pull the tail light and trim cut it with 800 and reclear it.

after you cut that all down and polish who knows if youll have enough clear on there for it to last. it is much faster too.

the chances of you trying to get all that orange peel to look factory are very very slim.

most likely you will polish to far and it will look like a mirror
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 4:45 pm
i will also add that it is easier to lay down clear on top of sanded clear. takes little effort for a nice factory look
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2017 6:21 pm
thanks for the posts. I will try cutting first with 1000 and see what I come up with. I'll use the meguires 105 and 205 for compounds. The buffer I have is just a polisher/rotary buffer, don't have a DA sander though thinking I may just pick up one for the cutting/polishing stage. I have 6 coats of clear on. And five coats of paint on.
Last edited by coindex765 on Sat Aug 26, 2017 12:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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