Wet sand and buff

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 10:26 am
DI40 Euro Clear.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 11:33 am
tomsteve wrote:twisted wool arent bad to use once learned.
personally, when i started using them, i started out with slower rpms, let the buffer do the work- no downforce, never let it sit in one area, and stop occasionally and lay the back of my hand on the surface to feel the temp of the surface.
i gradually worked up the rpm's the same way,stopping occasionally to feel the surface with the back of my hand. now, i might be able to buff longer, but ill stop when the area feels warm to the back of my hand then either move to another section and work it,then come back or just let it cool down.

the directions for M105 say work at MAX 1500-2000 rpms, but i dont think im up that high on rpm's.

imo, its better to start with lower rpm's and work up then starting with higher and workin down.
guess how i learned that! :shocked:


Good info here. I would add that most burn throughs happen on edges or body lines. You must approach them with the buff spinning OFF the edge and not into it. I generally start around a 1500 rpms but crank it up once I am sure I won't be slinging compound all over the shop. :rolleyes:
Personally, I only use foam pads for that actually polishing stages, wool gets the scratches out, the foam pads refine and remove the scratches.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 6:50 pm
So I had to repaint and reclear a fender and trunk Saturday. Cut and buffed it today and it made all the difference in the world. Buffing it after 4 days vs 3 weeks was a huge difference. Had the fender done in 20min with foam pads and G3.



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 11:44 am
Almost done with it. Trying to wrap up final assembly and minor wiring.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 6:43 pm
Looks great from here! :goodjob:
1968 Coronet R/T


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