aaaaaaaand the saga continues...
im SO close.
so im having a hellava time getting this turbine to lay down paint flat. always has a bunch of orange peel.
so my latest bright idea was to load a test panel with paint so that when I wet sand I wont burn through. I put 5 wet coats on.
wet sanded and buffed... and guess what? no deeper looking scratches like I had been getting. Problem solved... but not so fast...
NOW there was still orange peel visible after buffing.. so I guess spraying coat after coat of orange peel is a no no? do the coats not melt into eachother? the orange peel LOOKS flat but you can still see it in the reflection. I will get pics tomorrow.. I will also try sanding a little deeper tomorrow and see what happens.
it basically looks like factory orange peel finish now,,looks pretty much like my 2018 fusion paint LOL . not exactly what I was going for.. but acceptable I guess..
Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.
are ya using sanding blocks or just putting the sandpaper in your hand?
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:40 pm
Any place you still see a shiny spot in your sanding process is a place the sandpaper hasn't hit.
If you think of the surface as that of an orange (hence orange peel) it has lots of bumps on it. The idea is to sand those bumps level to the surrounding surface. You will not do that with too soft of a sanding block because it flexes.
Durablock makes a decent firm block for this: https://www.amazon.com/Dura-Block-AF440 ... B007VTSVDQ
As stated previously I use a piece of oak for this purpose. It is flat and non flexible.
Once you have the orange peel removed and the surface flat, Motor Guard makes a nice flexible soft block for use the finer grits 1500 and up. https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Guard-SB-1 ... B003WUYG1E
1968 Coronet R/T
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