Clear is white after compounded (Images!)

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 11:58 am
Lots of research before doing painting, and lots of contradiction.
I sanded to metal or fiberglass (depending on the part) with 60, 80, 120, etc up to 600 and then primered with a filler sandable primer. Came out smooth. After a few days rinsed it, 600 grit again, rinsed, dried for a couple hours in the sun then rolled into garage and used a body prep wipe.
Sprayed 4 coats of Dark Emerald Green Metallic waiting 10 minutes between coats.
After 30 minutes I then hit it with some clear, another 15 minutes etc for a total 5 coats.
Let it sit in the garage overnight then pulled it out (had to move it) and it set in the sun for a week.
Then took 1500 grit and wet sanded the hood and roof (the only parts painted so far).
Took some Macguiers Ultimate compund and a lambs wool buffer on one of those random orbital buffers and it shined up nicely. But after a day or 2 it turned all white, not orangepeel spots, but areas were white. If I put water on it, it went away. So I sanded again, and same thing. But if I water it, it looks green like it should (not as shiney as I would like but 1 issue at a time)
IMAGES! Finally!


I did read a bit on here and someone had a similar issue but he white dots everywhere that were the orangepeel and was told to keep sanding till it gets to those low spots. Could this be the same or similar issue only worse off?
I painted the doors and after 3 weeks I used 2000 grit instead, the entire door looks white, just like the hood and roof.....
https://imgur.com/a/HBna666
Last edited by Notsoep on Sat Nov 10, 2018 1:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 9:00 pm
It sounds like solvent was trapped under the clear coat. Treat the flash times listed on the Tech Sheet for your products as minimums. It is best to test the clear by touching a spot on the masking to see if it is wet (very soft) or if when you remove your finger it forms strings. In either case you need to let it flash longer.

With base coat, if you look across a freshly painted panel you can actually see the solvent evaporating and a wet look in some areas of the panel. Wait until it is one consistent color or that you can't see wet areas in your coat before spraying more.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 9:44 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:It sounds like solvent was trapped under the clear coat. Treat the flash times listed on the Tech Sheet for your products as minimums. It is best to test the clear by touching a spot on the masking to see if it is wet (very soft) or if when you remove your finger it forms strings. In either case you need to let it flash longer.

With base coat, if you look across a freshly painted panel you can actually see the solvent evaporating and a wet look in some areas of the panel. Wait until it is one consistent color or that you can't see wet areas in your coat before spraying more.


OK, it appeared to be set but I could be wrong, I know no strings came off, barely left a finger print mark. HOWEVER I will still get you some pics but if this is the case would hitting it with some 600 to shave it down and throwing a couple more layers of paint then re clear coat be OK to do as well?
(But why does it look somewhat shiny and sparkle green when wet?)

I should mention I am not looking for a showroom shine, this is only a rebuild not a restore. It was badly baked in the sun, clear coat burned off and the paint was so dry and cracking....And then it was in a flood. AND the kid never let it air out....But it is running good now, brand new seats and carpet. No rust in floor pan at all, was shocked! But for free, well worth it (93 camaro).

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 11:13 pm
What kind of paint are you using? What kind of guns and what are your settings?
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 11:19 pm
DarrelK wrote:What kind of paint are you using? What kind of guns and what are your settings?


Too embarrassing to say!

The $19.99 harbor freight gun (lots of reviews say it is fine if you are doing 1 car, not for a shop but a single car it holds up)
Nozzle is whatever came with it, again they said that was fine for paint.
Dupli-color paint and then clear.
45 psi from compressor. No issues coming out, I spray my trailer a few stripes to make sure it is coming out even before I hit the car.

The paint went on great and looks great. The clear on most of the roof, came out perfect, I mean shiny like it should, is only the hood that turned out this way.

I know the paint is the cheapest (or close) you can get, but I am not looking for perfect, just don't want my green to be white until it rains!

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2018 1:15 am
Pictures would help.
If it's just the hood and it looks fine wet, then the problem is in the clear coat. Dull the surface with Scotchbrite pad, wipe clean with an Automotive Wax and Grease remover, let flash and then shoot another coat or two of clear.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2018 10:44 am
Yeah, trying to get the pictures, but it went from 90 to 53 outside and raining so have to pull it in the garage to let it dry to get the before pic. 4 weeks not even a a cloud, and now I am asking for help nature decided to say NO! Not today!

(Link added to first post for pics, let me know if it doesn't work)

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 7:31 am
If the dullness/white look goes away when wet then the problem is on the surface.

Given that it was cut with 1500 and then buffed with an RO not all the scratching from the 1500 has been buffed out and this is most likely the problem.

After looking at the photos that finish looks really dry. I'd say cut it back until all the peel is gone and then go through the grits before buffing.

We cut with 1500, then 2000, then 3000 before buffing with a rotary. Only then bring in the RO to finesse the shine and take out swirl.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 10:08 am
Notsoep wrote:
DarrelK wrote:Dupli-color paint and then clear.


this gets into sumthin i dont know about, but duplicolor lacquer or enamel?

if it was a lacquer would that make a difference?



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2018 11:20 am
NFT5 wrote:If the dullness/white look goes away when wet then the problem is on the surface.

Given that it was cut with 1500 and then buffed with an RO not all the scratching from the 1500 has been buffed out and this is most likely the problem.

After looking at the photos that finish looks really dry. I'd say cut it back until all the peel is gone and then go through the grits before buffing.

We cut with 1500, then 2000, then 3000 before buffing with a rotary. Only then bring in the RO to finesse the shine and take out swirl.


Yes, as you can see it looks OK when wet, so I am hoping this can be solved.


You are thinking the 1500 left fine scratches (of course-but he pad can't clear them) and that is where the problem I am seeing, so it is working like it is supposed to but I need to hit it with 2000 now and if it is still white but less so I hit it with 3000...each grit removes the others scratches which is what this appears to be to you...

OK, but on the hood I think it is a little messed up by now in a couple spots, if I wanted to just use 600 to kill the clear on it then hit it with 1 or 2 layers of paint then 4-5 of clear again would this be OK? (Would I need a layer of primer between old paint and new since paint is actually only a month old?)
Then after it dried, you say hit it with 1500 (by hand wet block sand I guess) then 200 etc... afterwards hit it with the buffer.
Last edited by Notsoep on Sun Nov 11, 2018 11:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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