Your taking it my advice wrong
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools ... 62803.html
Harbor fright air comp specs :
Air delivery: 5.8 CFM @ 40 PSI, 4.7 CFM @ 90 PSI
Heavy duty 2-1/2 horsepower rated motor
Harbor frieght air gun most expensive model
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools ... 68843.html
Average air consumption 15 CFM @ 40 PSI
Harbor frieght Purple gun
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools ... 69705.html
Average air consumption 12 CFM @ 45 PSI
Good luck with your project.
Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.
Last edited by Doright on Wed Nov 14, 2018 5:30 pm, edited 3 times in total.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.
I did thank you for your reply.
I did not take your post wrong, just the tone is what I was meaning to say.
You did provide good info, and I did watch the videos.
I welcome all advice. There is no real 1 right answer but I put them all together and if you see my new post it looks SO MUCH BETTER! and without every ones input I could not have done it and would have probably made it worse.
Okay, you just have to bear with us old guys as we try to explain things without making you angry, pissed off, etc.
I am going to do a little math you that may help. You only have a 21 gallon compressor there.... The formula for cubic feet of air in a container is as follows.....
Divide the number of gallons of the tank size by 7.48 (7.48 gallons = 1 cubic foot) That means that tank only holds 2.8 cubic feet of air. That gun is a known air hog consuming probably 12 to 15 cubic feet per minute. Even if you shot that entire hood in a minute that is how much air should be generated by your compressor filling that tank. Bottom line....that compressor should be running (IF the gun is set up properly) from the first second it is triggered continuously until you were done AND it must deliver that rate of cfm reliably regardless of any indicated pressure. And when that doesn't work like that.....you get a poorly dry sprayed, usually textured surface, much like I am seeing here....... You don't have a sanding problem.....you have a spraying problem....just not enough coating to work with.....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
Not mad at all, just the tone of the other message from the guy. I still took his advice in, but doesn't mean I had to hold my tongue when something hits me the wrong way.
YOURS is informative. It made sense and didn't talk down to me.
But I am saying the compressor only kicked on once. I was able to do most of the entire hood.
Now I know the gun probably was not set up correctly, of course not, how would I even know! But as I mentioned, I am only trying to get a solid color car, not a total shine etc, just didn't want all that white and wanted to get rid of it.
I was getting an even spray with the paint so figure the same would work for the clear. Probably wrong it would seem. But as each part I spray I get better and learn more.
But since the hood is no longer white I started a new post to determine if I should reclear or just sand a little more. Probably shouldn't have started a new post but it is not the same issue now. It is can I sand it out or not.
It really is a night and day difference. Lots of work, but I do not mind the work.
As you can see in the other post the car was red and NASTY. I took it to the metal (and the rest is fiberglass) so I did the prep. 60-80-120-220 filler primer 600 a couple times then just before painting again and then prepaint cleaner stuff.
Just not as easy to get clear since after the first coat it is hard to tell where it is going and if even!
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