remove orange peel and when can i polish?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 8:26 am
ok so my gf toyota has this bad orange peel and runs on the hood on a repaint but the trunk and roof look great. so i am going to ask them to fix it. my question is, without me knowing how much clear they put on there, what is the best way to fix this orange peel? sand and buff? i personally dont want to remove clear coat but yet want those problems fixed. how about a flow coat?

also, the body shop said no wax or polish for 90 days. that seems pretty long to go without protection from waterspotting. what is a decent amount of time to wait after a repaint?
i was thinking more like a month? i would like to polish then put on a ceramic coating.

and since they said no wax and polish for 90 days, can they color sand to remove orange peel and runs? or would they respray base and clear?

mahalos

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 10:04 am
When you take it in to get it fixed ask them how many coats of clear are on the car.

Cutting and buffing a car with only 2 coats of clear is not for the faint of heart. Most want a minimum of 3 coats and for a beginner 4 coats is even better. If you sand through the clear you will be paying someone to fix it.

Wax will prevent the clear coat from fully curing properly. A proper cut and buff will leave it looking nice and glossy.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 1:39 pm
ok well they told me no polish for 90 days. so now im thinking how are you going to level out the orange peel without polishing in the end when they said no polish?



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 6:36 pm
bolts wrote:ok well they told me no polish for 90 days. so now im thinking how are you going to level out the orange peel without polishing in the end when they said no polish?


theres a difference between waxes/polishes and cutting/buffing compounds.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 10:52 pm
I'm a little confused.

bolts wrote:ok a little info. im basically a diy detailer with pretty much all the equipment and supplies to buff a car.


A good detailer should have a paint thickness gauge, with which you can measure the total thickness of the paint and deduce approximately how much you have to work with.

Failing that, cut the worst areas with an interface pad so your just rounding off the worst of the peel, not making it dead flat. It's not uncommon to see a bit more peel in the centre of a bonnet - it can be a bit of a reach and many painters tend to over-compensate.

The issue with fresh paint is that it continues to release gases as the heavier fractions of the thinners evaporates. For an activated paint this can take 2-3 months, depending on weather. So they were quite right in telling you not to wax or seal the surface because if you do this the vapours can't escape and you risk damage to the paint. As a detailer, even a DIY one, you should know that polishes are just superfine compounds. Of course, the marketeers have confused the issue by calling polishes wax, and vice versa. True waxes have no abrasive content at all, but they do seal the surface, just as sealers and ceramic coatings do. Some glazes are safe on fresh paint, some are not. A good quality swirl remover is probably your safest bet.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 1:24 am
yes i know you need to wait for the gases to release but i did not think it would take 3 months but they said the paint manufacturer said 3 months. i was thinking more like a month. but i figured i could compound but no use an all in one.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 12:18 pm
I thought you were taking this back to the people who botched the paint job?

You shouldn't attempt any repair prior to taking it back or they will void your warranty.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 9:11 am
yes i am taking it back i dont want any part in having to fix the problems and in fact theres more, see contamination in several areas and the base chipped off on the upper rail. terrible.

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