Don't understand where this haze is coming from

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.

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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 11:25 pm
grannyknot wrote:Oh I would love to get a rotary but it just is not in the budget and there is nothing on Craigslist near me, hell I have already spent close to $3,000 CDN on primer, filler, paint/clear and supplys :flatten:

68 Coronet R/T, thanks, that's a good pictorial, very helpful.


Borrow one if you have to.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2019 2:18 pm
I've have that HF rotary and have used it many times with great results, quite budget friendly as well.
Used to be a Megs user but have recently switched to Jescar correcting compound for initial cutting and finish with Sonax perfect finish, I get better results with these products.
Foam pad color depends on correction needed.



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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2019 4:55 pm
OK, I found a used rotary polisher for $40, will pick it up tomorrow morning.
So I have all the paint wet sanded out to 1500, cleaned the shop and car throughly then started with 2000 grit, there seems to be no visible difference between 1500 and 2000.
How can I tell when I have sanded out all the 1500 scratches?

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2019 7:24 pm
When you start buffing with the wool pad and M-100 it will bring up a shine very quickly.
If you still see a scratch here and there it will be the ones you missed. LOL

The M-100 will handle the 1500 scratches just fine, it will be the 1000 grit or deeper that will need a bit more work. Sometimes just a bit more compound and buffing will do the job, you just don't want to keep the buffer in one spot too long. You will get the hang of it rather quickly.

Another trick when wet sanding is to spray some Wax and Grease remover over the area and wipe it off inspecting the area while it's still wet.

NOTE: when using a rotary buffer always make sure the buff is rotating off the edges or body lines and not into them.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2019 10:47 am
one way to see the refinement of each grit of sand paper is to change directions. say on the 1500 grit, sand in a \\\\\\\ direction. switch to 2000 and sand in a //////// direction. with good lighting you can see it.
or use a guide coat.
with the M100 youll be good stopping at 1500.



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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2019 12:02 pm
I don't know why Sanding in multiple steps grits persists for new guys?
Sanding in multiple steps doesn't make the Clear shine any more than sanding one single step. In fact I believe it causes more work for the inexperienced.

I consider Sanding in multi steps very advanced sanding and polishing, You should try practicing on a piece of Lexan or Plexiglass first! Scratch it then Sand the scratch out bring it back to Clear with no sanding scratch! or try some other clear Plastic, you will quickly learn sanding in multiple steps is very advanced stuff.

I Polish Aircraft windows often after being scratched by Bird strikes or Jet Bridges scuffing Cockpit windows getting the scratches out and making the Glass clear again its not a job for the inexperienced, Its a lot of work to do it right.
Removing the previous sanding step sanding scratch is a lot more work and harder than most realize even those that think they are doing it right should try it on some plastic Plexiglass Acrylic or Lexan Plastic.

Your clear coat is Very thin even with 3-4 coats Sanding removes a lot of material quickly.

I strongly suggest sanding ONCE with 1200 and letting your compounds and Pads refine one single Sanding scratch with a ORBITAL variable speed buffer. Start with a Twisted Wool pad then after ALL sanding scratch is removed work with finer Pads and finer polishes.
Start with a compound designed to remove 1200 grit sand scratch then move on to a softer pads and a finer polishes. This is a good example of when Less is more or better.

Orbital polisher adapter for your Variable speed buffer.
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/dynabr ... 11979.aspx
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2019 2:36 pm
Dennis,
I tried that before and it didn't give me the clarity I wanted.
To me it depends on how nice the clear went down.
Sanding with the hard block and 1000 gets the clear coat nice and flat. I won't jump more than 500 in the grit rating so 1500, then 2000. At this point buffing is fairly easy.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2019 7:59 pm
You should try again Jim your skills have progressed ten fold.
Polished is polished, It doesn't get any more clear or shinier than just polished clear.

All clear coat is just a Plastic coating once its polished to 0 surface imperfections its done regardless of how you get their, There is just more work involved with other processes.

Why sand with 1000,1500,2000, then finer only to start buffing with a Compound that is designed to remove 1200 grit sand scratch and a Twisted wool pad?
The difference between sanding with 1000grit and starting with 1200 grit is Minute!

Starting with 1200 grit and taking the time to remove all imperfections with just 1200 grit Then just skipping to the Buffing stage with a Twisted wool pad and a Good compound designed to remove 1200 scratch is the way to go, it save time it saves money it has the same results and it can be further refined with finer compounds and finer Pads.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 5:16 pm
Well you guys weren't kidding, rotary polisher at 1200 rpm, wool cutting buff, M100.
So easy, no more haze, no pigtails, almost no swirls, I could wax right now and call it a day. Thank you for all that help.
The last pic is the wool buff after doing about 20 sq. ft. of buffing, should I wash this now or is it okay to keep using it like this?
IMG_0004 (1024x768).jpg

IMG_0006 (1024x768).jpg

IMG_0005 (1024x768).jpg

IMG_0013 (1024x768).jpg

IMG_0018 (1024x768).jpg

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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 10:25 pm
Well, I wouldn't be washing that pad at that point..... I would be "spurring" it with my spurring wheel which would break all that up. Something like this....
https://www.amazon.com/AES-Industries-B ... 0157&psc=1
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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