DA sander for clear coat buffing or will a Polisher work

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2019 1:45 pm
I have a Porter Cable 7424XP (dual action orbital) Polisher. This one https://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polishers.html
Will that work to buff/sand the clear coat (remove orange peel)?

I have plenty of foam pads for waxing/polishing and can probably get a "pad" for sand paper use (like 1200 to 3000 grit) if needed.

Or do I need to buy a DA sander?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2019 5:10 pm
Personally I recommend a 7" rotary buffer.
One round with Meguairs M-100 and a twisted wool pad and you will be amazed.

Do a search in this forum as this gets discussed a lot.
Hood Buffed 2.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 7:00 am
i wouldnt use the 7424 for sanding-not even primer. its way too aggressive.
bite the bullet and hand sand with a block blacker for at least initial cut.

you could cut/buff with the 7424. i used lake country orange pads and the twins of m105 and 205 for quite a few years. then stepped up to using a rotary,wool, and m105 for initial cut. something many people that start with rotaroies is that it isnt necessary to start at recommended rpm's of the product. its possible to start at a lower rpm and become confortable,then work up to the recommended rpm.
then steppped up to what coronet mentioned-m100. i havent used it on a cut/buff yet but have done a few wicked nasty paint corrections. m100 is badass.



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 8:33 am
Thanks for the help.
I have the Dewalt DWP849 too. This https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-t ... her/dwp849

So I should use that Dewlat rotary polisher with a wool pad and some M105 compound - and not use the Porter Cable DA polisher. I do have some wool pads but i'm not sure if they are "twisted wool" or not.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2019 9:20 am
Yes.
Put some 105 on the panel and then use the wool pad to smear it around a bit before turning the buffer on.

Then start at around 1000 rpm to prevent splatter and then speed it up to about 2000.

Always approach edges with the buff rotating off the edge and not into it. Same with body lines. Best not to buff edges and body lines much at all because the clear is much thinner in those places.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2019 3:00 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Always approach edges with the buff rotating off the edge and not into it. Same with body lines.


Nice tip! I would not have thought of that.
Thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2019 3:43 pm
That Porter Cable is all I use to sand clear coat before buffing.
Been using it for over 10 years now.
That random orbit is much less aggressive than a DA (dual action)
and works much better.
I run it at half speed.
I use a 1500 grit 6" disk, then a 2000 one (dry) and buff with a buffer.
Comes out much straighter than blocking by hand using the RO.

It's a great polisher too, but for buffing it just to slow.
you need a real buffer to get rid of the 2000 scratches.
I use the DeWalt as shown above for buffing, with a wool pad, then foam 2nd.
Once buffed, the polisher is great for swirl remover or waxes.
It's also great for finish sanding like feather edging.
One of the best tools I've ever owned.
JC

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)

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