Help removing hard edge line from masking tape

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2020 9:11 am
Hi guys,
I'm new to car painting, yeasterday i painted a little zone on the roof of my car.
The paint job got pretty good results, but when i was removing the tape , i saw a hard edge line from the masking tape.
If i were putting my fingernail on that line , i would feel it, other thing happened was a little bit of the masking paper got stuck on the clear coat (far away from de repaired area).
It's been like almost 20 hours from painting.
How can i fix this hard edge as well as masking paper stuck on clear coat.
Also when it's safe to start polishing / wet sanding ?

Here's some photos:

https://i.imgur.com/sb0OjUH.jpg
https://imgur.com/FPHpDQc
https://imgur.com/HGJKuu9
Hope you help me

Luís

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2020 4:10 pm
Only way to get rid of the edge is to bury it in clear and block it smooth.
JC.

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)



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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2020 5:08 pm
Thanks for the answer ,
i didn't understand, should i wet sand with a block on the line?
If so ,what grid Numbers?

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2020 9:58 pm
If the edge is just clear, i.e. not basecoat, then you can probably use the fine filler method to block it down.

Easier to just give you a link to a video, here, than it is to try to explain it. The same technique may work with the piece of masking paper.
Chris



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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 5:18 pm
Hi, thanks for your reply.
So, i saw the video and he applies fine filler on top of the paint , then he sands it down until the edge is gone.
But , is there any risk of failure,
I'm a little bit scared of not managing to get the filler out of the paint , and to stay with filler stuck... :?
So, basically we add fine filler, to be able to sand it down on the edge with a block, so the clear coat gets the same height of the paint, and then in the end we polish it , rigth?
Wet sanding only, without filler not recomended?
I'm a beginner...

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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 6:27 pm
Sure, there's always a risk of failure. But, if it works it can save you from having to repaint the whole panel, which is where you're at, at the moment.

The trick is that it's visual, so you can see where you are. That's why it's so much better than trying to sand the run without any filler. The filler protects the low side where the clear is thinnest, while you sand and reduce the thickness of the high side. Always use a block and the block should be as hard as possible. I use a small piece of hardwood. Concentrate on the high side, or the run. Stop as soon as the filler disappears.

If you didn't get it completely flat then re-apply filler and sand again. Remember that you don't need much filler thickness but do extend it a bit wider than the block that you're using.

It's autumn here and, as happens every year when the weather cools a bit, I've had a few runs while I'm still getting in to winter mode. This trick fixes them easily and quickly.

You apply the filler on the paint without sanding first, so that it's just sitting there.
Chris

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