Haze and scratches in clear

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2020 8:55 pm
I'm painting parts in an old German Heinkel Scooter. I had orange peel so I sanded it using 1000 and 1500, then used Meguiars 105 with a wool buff and Muguars 205 by hand with a terrycloth pad.

I have haze and scratches I can't seem to get rid of. It's disappointing and i'm not sure what to do next. I'm afraid to go at it again with the polisher for fear of burning through the clear. I'm thinking keep going at it with the 205 (a medium cut) by hand but maybe use something softer than the terry pad? It isn't that large a vehicle so I don't mind using elbow grease.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Finish is Spraymax 2k clear and a photo is attached. thasnks
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Clear.JPG



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2020 5:57 am
needs more buffing with the 105. 205 by hand is about useless. however, even by machine i dont think it will help here.
might want to switch to m100. it works a lot better than 105

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2020 8:01 am
1500 scratches are a bit much to buff out.
I would sand to 2000 at the very least.
JC.

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2020 12:41 pm
I am seeing subdued orange peel in the photo.
Getting it flat is the first goal. Next is being sure you have removed all of the 1000 grit scratches with 1500 and then all of the 1500 scratches with 2000.

This panel is sanded with 1000 grit. Notice the first 12" from right have been sanded with 1500 grit.
1000-1500 Grit.jpg
1000-1500 Grit.jpg (16.97 KiB) Viewed 9402 times


The same panel sanded with 1500 grit. Notice the first 18" from the right have been sanded with 2000.
1500-2000 Grit.jpg
1500-2000 Grit.jpg (16 KiB) Viewed 9402 times


Leaving 1000 grit scratches behind is easy to do if you are not methodical in your process. Same with the 1500 scratches.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2020 2:30 pm
It also helps to sand each grit in a different direction,
up and down, then the next grit back and forth and even 45 degrees.
that way when you see scratches you missed you'll know
which grit they are from.
JC.

(It's not custom painting-it's custom sanding)



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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2020 6:20 pm
JCCLARK wrote:It also helps to sand each grit in a different direction,
up and down, then the next grit back and forth and even 45 degrees.
that way when you see scratches you missed you'll know
which grit they are from.


Thanks. Would you recommend continuing with the wool buff after sanding or use a foam pad?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2020 7:11 pm
JCCLARK wrote:1500 scratches are a bit much to buff out.


ODG wouldn't agree with that. :rotfl:

OP, on a smaller part like that, even though wool is generally better, I'd stick with a foam pad. Smaller diameter means that you can follow the shape more closely and control a bit better, especially around edges and ridges.

In fact, I wouldn't even use a full sized buff on something like that. For smaller jobs I use one of these:
milwaukee_polisher.jpg
milwaukee_polisher.jpg (18.41 KiB) Viewed 9388 times


Couple with a pad like this from 3D (3.5", light purple, spider cut)
3D_90mm_pad.jpg
3D_90mm_pad.jpg (10.74 KiB) Viewed 9388 times


And used with:
3D_compound.jpg
3D_compound.jpg (20.4 KiB) Viewed 9388 times
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2020 2:29 pm
The ACA 500 is what I used on my TA. When I finally got a rotary and used a wool pad it made short work of any scratches left from sanding

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