1st paint job question about swirling/scratches and rub thru
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Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2021 2:10 pm Location: Kansas Country: USA |
This is my first auto paint job. Using Dupli color primer, paint, and clear coat. I started to buff after wet sand and I had areas of what I believe were fish eyes. I wet sanded the hood completely cleaned it and spot sprayed the areas and proceeded to lay on three more coats of clear. All together that made 6 coats so I knew that would give me room to work the clear flat. I let sit for 72 hours wet sanded with 1200 to 1500 then 2000. I used Meguiar's ultra cut compound with wool pad was not happy with the performance of wool on my Chicago electric buffer so I switched to a Bauer 7inch fast cut coarse foam pad that was much easier to work. Cleaned that pad and used Meguiar's fine cut then switched to my Bauer 6 inch DA polisher and used Meguiar's swirl remover finishing with Meguiar's paste wax. In the pics below you can see some sanding scratches and swirling. Do I start over with the cutting compound or should I go back and wet sand and go through all of the steps? One pic has a area outlined in red I believe some dirt had fallin into wet clear not sure if that requires sanding or cutting compound. Lastly how I did it I'm not sure but in the other pic you can see I rubbed through back to the primer. Can this be repaired without a major job. My thinking was wet sand spot that edge with paint and clear then wet sand smooth. I'm pretty happy with the results considering I'm working in my old detached garage but doing this for a friend and want the best results I can. Thanks in advance for any help!
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Well no replies but a few people did look at the post so I figured I would follow up. The first round of compound I used was the ultra cut from Meguiar's did that twice. After the swirl remover I coukd still see wet sand scratches I planned on starting back at 1500 then 2000 then all compounds again. I just happened to be at auto parts store and noticed a ultra pro speed compound. It says it removes 1500 and higher scratches. $40 later I'm happy to say they meant what they said. After that I repaired my spot I rubbed through to the primer. Covered hood taped of the edge after each coat of paint I immediately pulled tape. Next coat I would move tape line back just a fraction so I didn't have a heavy line. Did the same when applying clear. Was able to wet sand the tape lines and go through the compounds and it came out great! Can't say I did what a experienced guy would do but I followed my gut and it worked out. Will post picture soon.
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There are a lot of posts dealing with how to cut and buff.
Many people, many different methods and materials used. I post pictures of my work so the results are obvious. From the pictures I can see you didn't sand it correctly. For show car quality, I always use a hard block and 1000 to get the the surface flat. That means NO shiny spots anywhere. In this picture you can see that entire panel has been sanded with 1000 grit and is void of any shiny spots or dirt. The right portion of the panel shows where I have sanded with 1500 grit. The key is to get ALL of the 1000 grit scratches removed with 1500. The next picture shows the 1500 grit scratches being removed with 2000 grit. At this point Meguiars M100 with a rotary buffer and wool pad will bring amazing results. I follow that with Chemical Guys V36 on white foam pad. Then finish with Menzerna FF3800 and a black pad. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Settled In
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Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2021 2:10 pm Location: Kansas Country: USA |
Pics after using new compound and rub through repair
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Looks much better and very good for your first try.
Notice in the last picture on the left side where the lights are reflecting. You can see circular scratches. Like these: This is where the Menzerna FF3800 and a polishing pad come into play. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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