I just did my first cut and buff job yesterday. I wet sanded a motorcycle fender that was not in the best shape (paint) at all. It was more of an experiment but came out great. I wet sanded to 2000 grit and used Meguires M105 and then followed with M205. A Meguires rep reccomended the product for this. Where the paint was not too scratched, it looked like I just shot clear on it--it was that nice. Now, for the question: I had a no name Amazon set of pads consisting of a wool pad, a flat foam pad and a wavy foam one. I only used the flat foam (a different one for each product and wiped down/buffed with a micro fiber cloth. I was happy with the results but am wondering if I could/should of use the others in addition. I know for the best results I need to use better pads but for this practice, I had these on hand. Also, there very well be better product than Meguires but it was readily available for me. I'll try to add a pic of the pads. Thoughts??https://photos.app.goo.gl/ptJFnQMSZuqEksLP6
P.S. I think you will have to cut and paste the pic link for it to work--I don't think you can click on it--I need to find out how to post pics here.
Pads For Cut And Buff???
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Meguiar's M-100 blows the M-105 away and has no fillers in it.
I use Twisted Wool pads for first go around with the M-100. Then Lake Country CCS white pad and Chemical Guys V36. Finish polish with Menzerna Super Finish Plus 3800 and Lake Country CCS black pad. https://www.autogeek.net/lakecountry.html https://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-final ... o85rd.html https://www.chemicalguys.com/v36-optica ... olish.html 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Clearly you have a proven combo--I need to duplicate it. Thanks!! |
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Followed this combo to a "T" and it came out great. Now that I have a variable speed buffer, what speeds do you recommend for each application? |
I generally start slow (500-600 rpm) to spread the compound without slinging it all over the shop. Once I get it working I up the rpm to around 1600 and sometimes higher. Really don't pay much attention to the rpm setting as it is now more a matter of "feel" than rigid technique. The variable speed buffer really is the way to go.
Be sure to post some pictures. 1968 Coronet R/T
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I like that now I can slow it down not to spray it everywhere. I'll try the speed in the 15000-200 range next time. Thanks!! I'll post a couple of pics of the last tank I did--lighting was not great though. Owner was very happy though. |
Gas tanks can be a bit challenging for sure.
1968 Coronet R/T
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That's beautiful!! I wish it had been a sunny day the day I got that tank done--inside lighting did not due it justice. I'm not up to your quality but I am getting better with each job. Shooting a fairing in a deep purple/blue tomorrow. Doing it for a friend so I will spend the time on the cut/buff to really make it like a mirror (or at least that is the goal, LOL). |
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If you're doing a lot of MC parts, you should invest in a Chicago pneumatic buffer, with 3 inch wools and foams. Much safer, and more controllable. I used to have my friend hold parts while I buffed them with a full size buffer. He didn't appreciate the splatter! And it was pretty difficult to do most parts by myself. The 3 inch buffer made it easy!
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Currently have a 5" one, seems to work pretty well but, when it is time to replace I would try something smaller. |
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