Help with Materials/Equipment Selection

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2021 9:29 am
I haven't used the glazing putty method but I have tried using a razor blade to remove a run.
The danger with this comes with the run not being cured enough. The blade can actually pull a glob from the run that creates a crater in the clear coat.
It works fine on fully cured clear coat runs, so make sure you wait an extra amount of time for the runs to cure.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2021 11:00 am
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:I haven't used the glazing putty method but I have tried using a razor blade to remove a run.
The danger with this comes with the run not being cured enough. The blade can actually pull a glob from the run that creates a crater in the clear coat.
It works fine on fully cured clear coat runs, so make sure you wait an extra amount of time for the runs to cure.


Correct, i should have stated that.

the problem with using blocks and putty method is you wear down the clear around those areas to the point you have hardly anything left and risk failure
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2021 12:59 pm
I do have one of those Mirkas, I think that I did try it once and effed it up.

I guess I can try it again. God knows I can certainly sand the whole **** thing and reshoot clear! :cry:

I also have these Nib Files by Steck.

* I sprayed it Sunday and it has been in the 90s in the Pig Barn, how long should I wait to try it?

Denibbers (1).jpg

Denibbers (2).jpg
Last edited by OldFatBald on Tue Oct 05, 2021 3:38 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2021 1:01 pm
NFT5 wrote:...BTW, you still haven't fixed the different times on the clocks on the wall. :happy:


Thanks for the info Chris, but that clock is for my niece in Melbourne!!
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2021 4:03 pm
OldFatBald wrote:I do have one of those Mirkas, I think that I did try it once and effed it up.

I guess I can try it again. God knows I can certainly sand the whole **** thing and reshoot clear! :cry:

I also have these Nib Files by Steck.

* I sprayed it Sunday and it has been in the 90s in the Pig Barn, how long should I wait to try it?

Denibbers (1).jpg

Denibbers (2).jpg


those steck blocks are very out dated for todays finishes. i wouldnt use those on anything buddy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2021 4:44 pm
PainterDave wrote:the problem with using blocks and putty method is you wear down the clear around those areas to the point you have hardly anything left and risk failure


Not if you do it properly. The filler protects the surrounding area and is visual, so you don't sand it completely away - just until it's see-through. That way you're not actually sanding into the clear in the surrounding area. I use 1/8 sheet P400 wet on a small, very hard timber block that is dead flat and square. Then go up through the grades. Occasionally you'll need to re-apply a skim of filler, but not often.

I have a tungsten block, too. Good for dust nibs on flat or slightly convex surfaces, terrible on concave. That Mirka one might be better with the rounded corners, so they don't dig in. The razor blade method can work too but I use single edge and put a slight curve in the blade and then touch the corners on a grinding wheel. Clear needs to be nice and hard though, as noted above.

OldFatBald wrote:that clock is for my niece in Melbourne!!


Ahh. Getting the time right between here and the US I always find difficult, having to remember that there it's yesterday. :?

Try the filler method, mate. You have nothing to lose at this point.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 6:51 am
OldFatBald wrote:I do have one of those Mirkas, I think that I did try it once and effed it up.
Denibbers (1).jpg


PainterDave wrote:
those steck blocks are very out dated for todays finishes. i wouldnt use those on anything buddy


Seems to be a learning curve with just about everything we do, and with a lot of tools we use. I have the little files on blocks and they are very Susceptable to gouging. I like the Festool denibbing tool, but its very much like the Mirka.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 10:03 am
NFT5 wrote:
PainterDave wrote:the problem with using blocks and putty method is you wear down the clear around those areas to the point you have hardly anything left and risk failure


Not if you do it properly. The filler protects the surrounding area and is visual, so you don't sand it completely away - just until it's see-through. That way you're not actually sanding into the clear in the surrounding area. I use 1/8 sheet P400 wet on a small, very hard timber block that is dead flat and square. Then go up through the grades. Occasionally you'll need to re-apply a skim of filler, but not often.

I have a tungsten block, too. Good for dust nibs on flat or slightly convex surfaces, terrible on concave. That Mirka one might be better with the rounded corners, so they don't dig in. The razor blade method can work too but I use single edge and put a slight curve in the blade and then touch the corners on a grinding wheel. Clear needs to be nice and hard though, as noted above.

OldFatBald wrote:that clock is for my niece in Melbourne!!


Ahh. Getting the time right between here and the US I always find difficult, having to remember that there it's yesterday. :?

Try the filler method, mate. You have nothing to lose at this point.


you must not use a mil gauge very often... if you do you'll find yourself being under the minimum requirement mil thickness for proper UV protection on methods like the putty.

I do agree that you could make it look good in appearance with the putty, but you should be shooting for a proper paint job and that requires following rules, not just stepping back and saying "it looks good"
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 10:04 am
Razor Blade works well too, i usually just wrap 3/4" tape 1 time around each end
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2021 3:41 pm
PainterDave wrote:you must not use a mil gauge very often.


Well, there you go, my bad. My PTG measures in μm, not mils. :knockout:

Seriously though, if you leave a visible smear of filler on the sides and at the bottom of the run then you're never actually sanding into the clear in those thinner areas until you get up to about P1500 and then all you do is take the filler off. Probably not reducing clear thickness as much as doing a full cut and buff.

Next time I get a run (should be sometime in 2022 :rockon: ) I'll measure the thicknesses.

IMHO, the secret is a small, hard timber block, about 60x20mm and starting with P400. That knocks the run down with less rubbing and while the surrounding areas are still protected. If you use a rubber block, even a hard one, you do risk going through.
Chris
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