So I decided to try out the Mirka scraper on my runs.
Took a little bit to get used to it, but I figured that I had to start somewhere.
Help with Materials/Equipment Selection
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Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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I then went over to the router table, grabbed some 3/4 acrylic and made some sanding blocks. I might make some more out of 1/2 material.
I hit the run area with some Super Assilex 800 dry, followed by some wet 1000 Then I moved onto the rest of the hood which again took a bit of getting used to, but it seems to be going quicker and smoother now. I plan on staying away from the sharp edges and the center peak as much as possible. My goal for tonight will be to get most of the 1000 wet sanding completed. I can't really tell how well I am doing until I wipe and dry off the area that I am working on while it is wet. Would a squeegee help or do more damage? Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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i use a detailing squeegee,
looks like you did good work with the blade, just remember the advice someone gave earlier about that run being soft and it could rip it open, https://www.amazon.com/Original-Silicon ... 4892&psc=1 Experienced Trained Certified
SATA Spray Equipment Germany Axalta ChromaBase Elite Standox Imron 5000 6000 PPG Delfeet Deltron Global Matthews Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Genesis Valspar DeBeer LIC Akzo Nobel Sikkens Lesonal |
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Finished up the wet sanding today.
Kept looking at it wondering if it will really buff out. Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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Used a twisted wool pad and some Meguiar's M100 on a small area followed by a white foam pad and some Chemical Guys V36.
Gotta say, I get a little nervous around the edges. Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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Then went back to the wool pad and M100 on the rest of the hood.
* When I see these type of scratches, should I go back over it with the M100 until they are gone before moving onto the white pad? * When using the twisted wool and M100, am I supposed to keep buffing it until the M100 is dry and kind of disappearing (hope that makes sense)? Tomorrow I will (hopefully) do a little more of the M100 then the next two steps. I sure could use some better lighting in the Pig Barn Last edited by OldFatBald on Sun Oct 10, 2021 5:14 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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white is for cutting, Foam or wool.
youll need either light blue or black polishing pad to finish that up. and polishing compound not cutting compound Experienced Trained Certified
SATA Spray Equipment Germany Axalta ChromaBase Elite Standox Imron 5000 6000 PPG Delfeet Deltron Global Matthews Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Genesis Valspar DeBeer LIC Akzo Nobel Sikkens Lesonal |
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I have some Chemical Guys V36 that I was going to use with the white foam pad And some Menzerna 3800 that I was going to use with a black pad. Isn't the white foam pads for medium polish? I'm still not sure when I should move onto the next step. Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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You should be working a small area at a time. So move on to the next step and if it doesn't clear up, you still have scratches that it cannot remove. Go back to step one and remove those scratches, then proceed to step two.
Step three is really for scratches that are hard to see with the naked eye, yet hinder the clarity of the finish. The sanding of the panel is very important. Here I have a tailgate sanded with 1000 grit and I have started sanding with 1500. Notice that I am working from right to left and making sure all of the 1000 grit scratches are gone. This is the same panel but now I am sanding with 2000 grit: Notice in both pictures you can see the difference from where I have sanded and the section that is not. The buffing process is similar. The first step removed the very heavy scratches, then each successive step refines those scratches until you cannot see them anymore. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Are you sanding dry? Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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