Which brand buffing compounds
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Non-Lurker
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Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2021 9:55 pm Country: USA |
Just wondering what brand buffing compounds people are using with satisfaction. About 70% of my projects I paint single stage solid colors on older vehicles. Input appreciated.
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The answers will vary greatly, as once you get a system that works, you tend to stick with it.
I like Meguiar's M100 and twisted wool pad on a rotary buffer. Follow with Chemical Guys V36 with a white Lake Country CCS foam pad. Finish with Menzerna Super Finish 3800 and a black CCS foam pad. Do a search on here for what others use. 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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Non-Lurker
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2021 9:55 pm Country: USA |
Coronet R/T: Thanks for the response. I started doing restorations full time in the 70s but in the mid 80's switched careers but it seems like I always had a project. Retired four years ago and picked up on restorations again; part time. Materials have changed so much over the years (understatement) and I'm just investigating what is available now.
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Just a few examples.
2000 Harley Front Fender: 1962 Chevy tailgate: 1990 Miata: 1955 Chevy hood: 1968 Coronet R/T door: 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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No Turning Back
Posts: 602
Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:36 am Country: USA |
I've tried a bunch of them, as they slowly got worse and worse in performance. FInally settled on Sonax. Cutmax first, then Perfect FInish. Here's a 66 Skylark I just finished.
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You know it's funny..... I usually pick a few cars I like at car shows, cruise-ins, national meets, and select the ones that I think have the best cut/buff final polish on them. If you find the few guys that did everything in the way of body work, paint, etc., I swear there won't be two of them that arrive at that final great look the same way...... Different compounds, different wool pads, different foam pads, and on, and on. I mean it seems like we all end up spraying more alike (well, there are a bajillion guns I guess) but when it comes to the cut and buff....as long as that image is razor sharp....well, that's enough right?
Hey, Chopolds what's your buffer situation like? Wool, foam, etc..... Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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I had never cut n polished before I redid a beat up hood in black for my C30. Figured I had to start somewhere.
I followed 68's recommendations and I like the results. You don't get much more of rookie weekender than me. These guys even taught me how to remove a nasty boogered up run out of it prior to polishing. I have both a Dewalt DW849 and a Makita PO5000C. The Dewalt did a much better job (for me) on the first two cuts. Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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No Turning Back
Posts: 602
Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:36 am Country: USA |
DarrelK, DeWalt variable speed buffer, regular wool pad first, at 2000-2200, then foam pad at 1600-1800. Sometimes (like with a dark color) a softer foam pad, with a swirl remover, or glaze. Then Meguires's # 9, by hand. Yeah, lots of work!
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Thanks, I'm starting to keep kind of a "file" on how guys are getting good results with their process. Ha, ha.....only correlation between them is "time and hard work." Honestly, I'd rather spray any day of the week instead of having to cut/buff. If someone came out with something you sprayed on to replace all that I'd have it in 55 gallon drums.....
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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On this '55 Chevy I tried using a DA for color sanding. The clear as sprayed looked really good and didn't appear to have any urethane wave to it, so I started with a soft interface pad and 1500 film discs.
Sanded dry but reduced the air pressure to the DA to keep the sander moving at a slower pace so as not to get fishtails. (this happens when the dust collects in the center of the pad) It is actually easier to see your progress as you remove all the shiny spots. Switched to 2000 grit and again it seemed much easier to see when the 1500 grit scratches were removed. Once I was a bit more comfortable using the DA, I found on large, fairly flat panels, that I could use 1000 grit to level the surface more quickly. A bit nerve racking on your first attempt, as you are worried about burning through. Fortunately I did not. You do have to remember to approach any edges or body lines with the rotation of the DA (like you do with a rotary buffer) going "off" the edge and not "into" it. Here's the back of the cab after buffing: 1968 Coronet R/T
ACTS 16:31 |
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