Another cut and buff question

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2022 9:16 pm
I painted the door of my hotrod using PPG Deltron and clear. The base was wet sanded to get it flat, then I sprayed on 3 coats of clear that got some small bits of something in it.
I wet sanded it out with 600, then 800, then 1200. I then used my buffer with a Chemical Guys orange med-heavy hex logic pad using M105 followed up with M205.
The shine just isn’t as good as the other panels I previously did and didn’t do anything to after the clear.
I see you recommended M100, which I just ordered today.
Should I have kept sanding with 1500, then 2000 before buffing?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2022 9:47 pm
Wet sanding clear should start at 1000 grit, then 1500 and follow with 2000 grit.
Anything coarser is not going to come out with a buffer.

At this point you have probably removed a lot of your clear coat with those coarser grits.
I would prep it and shoot another 2 or 3 coats of clear.

Then start your wet sanding with 1000 grit. If you have a lot of orange peel or urethane wave, then use a hard block with the 1000 grit to get everything flat (no shiny spots). Use care around edges and body lines. Once that is done, you can use a soft block for the 1500 and 2000 grit wet sanding.

A wool pad on a rotary buffer and Meguiar's M100 will easily remove those scratches and bring clarity to the surface.

Also, sanding your base coat before clear is not a good idea, especially if you are spraying anything other than a solid color. If you have issues with your base, you can fix those but then respray more base before proceeding.
1968 Coronet R/T


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Location: New Mexico
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2022 10:11 pm
OK, will do.
I don’t have any orange peel at this point. I’m using a solid color.
The clear was 3 pretty thick coats. I’ll prep it and shoot again.
The M100 will be here on the 5th, I’ll have to get a wool pad.

Thanks for the help.
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