I have been using their ultimate polish and while it polishes nice, the splatter off the foam polish pad when it dries on anything is like semi permanent. Toothbrush and soap wont remove it. Soap and a sponge will not remove it. A scuff pad might be then you will scratch the clear. It is even harder to remove from black plastic, it leaves a white haze behind. What will dissolve it off, rubbing alcohol?

And it will dry quick when polishing paint, I send splatter multiple feet away. Kind of discouraging to deal with. On my Dark blue paint, anything white is easy to see. I did find if I use my fingernail , I can scrap off tiny spots of dried polish with some effort.

Would precoating the washed paint, plastic, rubber with that ceramic Turtle wax spray keep this dried splatter from sticking like glue?

Here is a different polish, M0316, how will it compare cutting wise with ultimate polish?

I see it says "Buffing residue wipes off easily" Do they mean dried splatter or what is left on the paint, cause the ultimate polish wipes off easily after machine polishing.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M0316-M ... r=1-5&th=1

I also have here some old Turtle Wax white polish in a metal can, is that just as good for creating a mirror like shine as the others?

I only use Meguiars M-100 now on a twisted wool pad for the first go after wet sanding with 2000.
It has no fillers in it and removes scratches very easily. It is the fillers in a compound that make the splatter hard to remove.

For show car finishes, I will follow that with Chemical Guys V36 on a foam pad. (You could skip this step and move to the next for a daily driver.)

Follow that with Menzerna Super Finish 3800 using a foam polishing pad. This will remove any super fine scratches that may only show in direct sunlight.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:I only use Meguiars M-100 now on a twisted wool pad for the first go after wet sanding with 2000.
It has no fillers in it and removes scratches very easily. It is the fillers in a compound that make the splatter hard to remove.

For show car finishes, I will follow that with Chemical Guys V36 on a foam pad. (You could skip this step and move to the next for a daily driver.)

Follow that with Menzerna Super Finish 3800 using a foam polishing pad. This will remove any super fine scratches that may only show in direct sunlight.

Thanks for that info about fillers in the Ultimate polish. It does give a nice mirror like shine with the machine. The little white dried specks are terrible. Kind of surprised people put up with it. Imagine going back to polish the little white splatters off and you keep making new ones...

I bought some chemical guys GAP11216 Wet Mirror Finish, gives me 16 ozs.
And says it is easy to clean off. I am a newbie when it comes to polishing, so having to learn what works out and what does not.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR ... UTF8&psc=1

Everyone seems to have a procedure and brand names that they like.
You have to go with what works for you.
After years of restoring cars, the above is what works for me. I buy Lake Country buffing pads, use a DeWalt 7" variable speed rotary buffer.

Wet sand using 1000 grit on a hard block to remove orange peel and any urethane wave. Then 1500 on a soft block, followed by 2000 on a soft block.

The Meguiars M100 removes those easily.

'55 Chevy Truck:

All those panels look excellent.
After painting clear, I have been jumping Straight to compounding and polishing, but if some of it is rough, wont flatten was wet sanding, compound then go back to polishing. Mostly wet sanding with like 1500 in a few spots. I have a variable speed polisher with a foam pad. I run it on like number 3 setting.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PY ... =UTF8&th=1

The polisher
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PL ... UTF8&psc=1

The problem is not the polish, it's your tools and technique.

That polisher is a rotary and it has a minimum speed of 1500rpm. That's almost as fast as you'd want to go and you're running it at setting 3 which, I'd guess, is probably around 2500rpm. Of course it splatters.

Put the compound on the pad, not the panel, and work it in to the pad before placing it on the panel, then move it around to work in any excess. Set the polisher so the pad is flat to the panel and start it on the minimum speed. If you tilt it it will throw splatter everywhere. Make one light pass and then work the area, keeping the pad as flat as possible.

This machine really isn't the best for polishing because it will leave swirl marks, but if it's all you have then use a softer pad for the polish and light pressure. A DA type machine does a much better job in the polishing stages.

If you do get splatter, and it does happen, remove it immediately, before it dries and sets. If the splatter gets on to rubbers then a little Prepsol on a cloth should take it off.

get some of that M100 and a twisted wool pad. youll thank coronet later.

Turtle wax spray wax
or Mequiars quick detailer should help removing splatter

NFT5 wrote:The problem is not the polish, it's your tools and technique.

That polisher is a rotary and it has a minimum speed of 1500rpm. That's almost as fast as you'd want to go and you're running it at setting 3 which, I'd guess, is probably around 2500rpm. Of course it splatters.

Put the compound on the pad, not the panel, and work it in to the pad before placing it on the panel, then move it around to work in any excess. Set the polisher so the pad is flat to the panel and start it on the minimum speed. If you tilt it it will throw splatter everywhere. Make one light pass and then work the area, keeping the pad as flat as possible.

This machine really isn't the best for polishing because it will leave swirl marks, but if it's all you have then use a softer pad for the polish and light pressure. A DA type machine does a much better job in the polishing stages.

If you do get splatter, and it does happen, remove it immediately, before it dries and sets. If the splatter gets on to rubbers then a little Prepsol on a cloth should take it off.

It apparently is not the exact machine, mine is orange, so is a variation of it, even though Amazon says I purchased it.

Machine is not so powerful that it can keep up the rpm that high when under load on top of the paint surface, it can run slowly enough with that friction. I have not seen any circular swirl marks forming. I am starting to not like these 2 Meguiar polishes so much, especially the compounding one. They have some kind of grease in them and maybe fillers? Seems to me that could interfere with cutting the paint surface. But I am inexperienced. When I first started polishing, I was using a ceramic cooktop stove white polish, no greasiness in it, and was spritzing water from a spray bottle while polishing so it would not dry too much, seemed to cut faster. Plus easy to clean the residue off. I did find it worked ok, especially if followed by the fine polish if needed.