Cut & Buff first or Raptor Liner first?

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2024 6:13 pm
Just finished a base coat/clear coat on my truck. I sprayed a little over into the area where I will be applying the Raptor lining. A majority of the bed has only Tamco epoxy high build primer with no other finish on it. There are a couple other areas that I need to put some bed liner that has some bc/cc on it that I would need to mask and sand (door sills). My question is should I spray the bed liner in the areas I need to first or cut and buff the whole thing first.

Truck Hmmwv/H1
Paint: Tamco base (black), Tamco Glamour clear.

Places the Raptor Liner needs to go:
Bed/top of fender area.
Door sills.
Inner fenders/ wheel wells.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2024 10:51 pm
Makes little difference, really. Only risks are that there could be something in your compound or polish that would lessen adhesion but you'd Prepsol anyway so not really a big issue. Probably a bit easier to buff an area without the Raptor than to try to work up to the edges, so again that counts to doing the Raptor last. Just make sure that your masking is all 100% and that you're using the correct tape to cut through the edges cleanly.

You're not really going to cut & buff the inner guards and wheel wells, are you? Same with door sills?
Chris



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2024 4:57 am
I’m not going to cut and buff those areas. There is a bunch of rivets all over the place. How do I go about cutting and buffing those areas?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2024 10:01 am
You don't. Which is why I asked the question, somewhat incredulously.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2024 2:47 pm
The whole truck is a rivet. What would the best way to get a better shine on it.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2024 2:54 pm
Also put 3 coats of clear.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2024 12:02 am
Styckie wrote:What would the best way to get a better shine on it.

Complete a 4 year, full time apprenticeship. Then spend another 4 years, or so, refining your skills.

Look, I get that a lot of you guys are just trying to save money and I don't condemn you for doing that, at all. But you also have to be realistic about the results you're going to achieve.

Looking at those photos I see a substrate that isn't all that good, I see unrepaired damage, I see urethane wave big enough to surf, I see the results of very poor masking and I see dry spots that could be mistaken for P240 paper. Now I'm not having a go at you, just calling what I see.

First decide whether you want the overspray to remain or intend to repaint those sections.
Then go over the whole surface using a small, hard block and P1000 wet. What you want to achieve is to knock down the dry areas, take out the nibs and reduce that peel a bit. Gently, using a squeegee to check progress and staying well away from any corners or edges because you DO NOT want to go through the clear that is now there. The rivets are going to be a pain but you must stay clear of EVERY ONE.

Clean meticulously, remask and then put 2 even, medium wet coats of clear over the whole lot. Hold your gun in nice and close and move a little faster. You don't want runs but that clear must be wet enough to flow. When dry all you want to do is denib any big ones then take that thing out in the bush and scratch it up. :P
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2024 7:44 pm
Well where I live I called every auto body shop around and they all said the same thing. “We only do collision work” “we don’t know anyone who paints full vehicles anymore”. Other than a Maco paint job it seemed that the auto body world around me thinks it’s not equitable to paint anything other than insurance jobs.I was told paint is to expensive. That’s not something I want to get into.

So here we are. Me painting this thing in my garage with no experience.
The overspray onto the bed I already scuffed and Raptor lined since making this post. Seemed like if I was to get any overspray from that on the other pained areas I could sand off (yes I masked everything off).As for the unevenness of the body. This thing had armor plating on it before witch left a tone of holes( that I will be filling with 1/2 bolts), a million rivets to try to block sand around. I’m not looking for show quality, just somthing that is presentable. I don’t care if it has a little bit of waves in the body work as long as it has a decent shine. It has a lot going on with the rivets and bolts that I think the not so good body work will mesh into its ruggedness.

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