Tips on color sanding and buffing

Discuss anything after that final masking comes off.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2004 11:24 am
Hi everybody, I'm new to the board and figured I'd pass on a helpful tip that I've learned in the pass 18 yrs of doing autobody and paint here in Alaska.

If you have the time and want to save on materials plus the clear that is on your vehicle, please read on-

Usually after letting the clear dry (3-4 coats) for 12-24hrs, I'll wet sand the clear with 1500 grit till satisfied, wipe down with 50% alcohol and water and walk away from it (go work on another vehicle in the shop). I'll wait 6-12hrs or overnight before coming back to buff with the buffer (we use finesse-it II to buff with). Notice- no 2000 grit paper or rubbing compound :? . I've noticed that if you let the solvents evaperate between 6-12hrs after wet sanding with 1500 grit that it will also eliminate alot of scratches (seal-up and flatten-out) that where left after wet sanding. All your left with is buffing with the buffer to a wet-look shine. Doing it this way will leave more clear on the vehicle for durability and UV-protection plus save you in labor and materials. Try it, you won't be disappointed :D .

just my .02
Ed

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2004 8:45 am
Thanks for the tip will try it and see how it does



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 10:29 pm
i do not like to buff unless it has dirt in it it. too easy to leave swirl marks. if u spray several wet coats of clear it will look wet

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 10:35 pm
Color sanding also helps to open the pours of the paint so it can cure better and stronger.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 7:51 am
You know (towboattrash34) by doing alot of painting (on vehicles) you'll always get something in the paint (dust nibs, trash, overspray ect...), everybody does. You simply can't spray several coats to fix it without running into more problems- mil thickness :shock: . Depending on the reputation you have- sure, I guess you could pass it out the door, but I wouldn't put my name on it in that type of situation :oops: . If your leaving swirl marks when your done buffing-your not doing it right (something wrong) :? . Paint should be flat as glass with a wet look and show no signs of swirl marks :D .
I totally agree with Horsepowers comment also.
Just my .02



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:27 am
About that alcohol tip you gave, is that with regular old household rubbing alcohol then delute with 50% water, or just predeluted rubbing alcohol 50/50. Thanks for the tip!

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2004 8:06 am
It's a mixure of 50/50 rubbing alcohol and water in a spray bottle. I also use it after I finish wiping down with wax and grease remover prior to painting before the tack cloth, it will get rid of any organics that the wax and grease remover fail to get.
Hope this helps 8) .



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 9:38 pm
Tricky: one question on the alcohol rubdown. Do you just spray it on the surface and leave it, or do you wipe it off so it doesn't dry on the vehicle?
Silly boys....Trucks R 4 Girls.



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 11:13 pm
Ive been paying some attention to this task, Im positive he wipes the surface down W/ the alc/O2 mix.



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 4:02 am
How good is alcohol-water? Does it really not leave any residue? The plant I work in has some laser equipment with precision, front surface, rotating mirrors. The only thing that is approved to clean them is alcohol-water mix, not even with a cloth or anything. Just spray them down. Pretty good recomendation, I think!
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