Advice for newbies

Information on how to use the discussion board. Post usage questions here.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 11:48 am
I wouldn't. You'd be driving that stuff into the pores of the plastic. Now of course there are guys out there who will say they do it all the time, never had a problem, etc. So...the question is 'do you feel lucky?'

I have not personally done this myself but based on conversations I've had in the past with restoration guys, there are suitable plastic-based media you can get for media blasting plastic parts. Some research should turn up a few choices...

There are also aerosol paint strippers that are plastic-friendly.



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 4:23 pm
chris wrote:1. Everyone here comes from different backgrounds. In this field there are often many ways to achieve the same end result. Sometimes the difference in advice is based on the perspective of an experienced technician who is "on the clock", versus a serious hobbyist or restoration expert who is going for a "six nines" (.999999 perfection) result. Sometimes the difference in advice is based on the way we were taught. The new person here needs to read and examine all advice given, and decide for himself which is the lowest risk/highest reward approach. If someone posts advice that is flat out wrong, the community here will quickly (and hopefully, kindly) point out the flaw, and offer alternatives.
A wise man once said "A true mark of a craftsman is his ability to fix mistakes". That's very true when it comes to auto body and paint!



Best post I have seen yet on this website!
It would be really Cool and helpful if people had to post there real experience level under there names off too the side under there Avatar so people could help themselves judge who to listen too or who not too listen too as well.
There's getting to be far too many Hacks in the kitchen
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 6:44 pm
just joined this site what an awesome article one of the nest i read so far,keep up the good work.hopefully i can leave some good information too,i been spray painting for 23 years in the factory,also a set up tech,i mix all the paints to proper viscosity and run all the sample parts.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:58 am
dont use old product
in the immortal words of Frank Sinatra "That's Life"



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 10:59 pm
Wow I am amazed to have stumbled onto this site/forum. This is really great stuff and I am just glad that you fellas are willing enough to help out guys like me with little to no knowledge of body and paint work.
Thanks Chris....
Life is nothing but one big classroom for you to learn your life lessons in!!!!



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:31 am
Fantastic

This is massivley helpful...thanks very much

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:25 pm
This is great information for a novice like me, thanks again



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 1:33 pm
The last time I washed metal prep off a stripped car body, the metal rusted before my eyes. Since then, I have been dreaming about some solvent that would neutralize/flush the acid metal prep away, yet not cause the steel to rust as quickly as I washed it. I know that alcohol desolves more of earths elements than anything else (except water - king desolver). Also in consideration is "stoddard solvent." Is there something else that is known to neutralize and flush an acid like metal prep??? How about all that stuff on Lowes shelf. MEK, acetone, lacquer thinner, enamel thinner??? It seems there has to be something out there. Eastwood claims their "Pre" will neutralize and flush metal prep. What is Pre made out of???

And, referring to an earlier comment that said something about epoxy prime doesn't need a metal prep application before priming. Does that statement have merit???

And lastly, I have been fearful about getting the water out of my air supply line. I am welding fittings onto three propane barbque tanks and mounting them upside down to act as expansion tanks, along with a big Devilbiss water/filter (about 16") separator. In addition, I think I will purchase one of those dessicant snakes to mount just before the spray gun. I have about a forty foot run of one inch plastic line that I hope will cool the air and cause the water to drop out. Any thoughts about this setup working???

I thought about sourcing a junk yard, diesel truck water separator. Are these applicable to paint air supply ines??

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 7:22 pm
Good Stuff!! Thanks
Clay B.

Jane's Progress Thread


I can do everything through Jesus Christ who gives me strength. Phil. 4:13

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 3:19 am
Greetings from the high desert, where everyday is a great paint job day. Viva Las Vegas!!

First post. First day. Vale Tech graduate, iPA , 1979. Hobbiest. Some expierience in production. Mostly self paint, and bodywork my own projects. Hope others logg on here with thier credentials, experience. A kind of index.

Looking to add and take. Can't sign out. Great site!.

Paint products used; PPG, US Paint, Sherwin Williams(Acme), Dupont,
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