Check this HC-2100 shot out

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 8:07 pm
This is at least the 30th car we've shot with the HC-2100 clear and it performs flawlessly every time.

Three coats shot today with 15 min flash time. No reducer or retarder. Straight off the gun.

Tamco-HC2100-DeckLid.jpg
Tamco HC-2100 "off the gun"

You guys who have not tried a Tamco clear yet - consider giving them a try. There are literally hundreds of people from this site, both registered members and lurkers now using Tamco clears -- the momentum keeps building around the Tamco products. I'm filling repeat orders almost daily now.

I would like to thank everyone who has given them a chance -- know that you are supporting a good old fashioned American, God-fearing family running a tight ship down there in Virginia...nicest people you'd want to meet. They don't disparage any other company's products and they don't lie about what goes in theirs. In fact I've been telling them please cut back on the information, sometimes we don't want to know about every last resin and UV protector :lol:

It's great to work with smart people who are passionate about their products.



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 9:01 pm
Nice . I can't wait until their HC-2104. I never sprayed something that high in solids content so I hope I get too many curtains.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 9:40 pm
That looks fantastic Chris.
How did you keep the dust out of it?
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 9:44 pm
Thanks Jim - yeah there is dust, you just can't see it in that picture. I put up a plastic barrier, have exhaust fans, make sure the area is clean, etc. when painting so not too bad...but in a home garage like this dust is inevitable.



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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 10:03 pm
I like it! Just curious but what gun did you use? If its a Tekna Prolite please post up your adjustments. I just ordered one with the te20 air cap and 1.3/1.4 tip.



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 12:15 am
buying materials is so confusing to somebody new like me. you have the catalog companies, the cheap stuff, the expensive stuff and then inbetween. i suppose you guys that lay material like to try different stuff and evaluate it and use what you like first hand?

my local paint store is in a small town and i have somebody that basically is set in their ways and have a product line to push and i already feel i have got some fishy advice more than once :(

i am scared to buy the colors online and planned to get color from the local guy.

i was talking with them about clearcoat because i need some for first time project in a month or so and i think they push the nason system and they have an entry level clear that he was saying is the cheap stuff and can work and last a year or two with abuse or maybe 10 years if you take care of your car whatever that means.

i have never heard this kind of thing before and there are cheap clear kits all over the net. i see many different old vehicles on the road with flaky clearcoat so i was actually going to ask what route to take.

of course the rep had other clears he wanted to push that jumped up in price and he was also telling me that the quality of how it sprayed lasted longer and covered better so the total extra cost vs. the cheap was misleading a bit.

as a newbie it would be nice to pick a clearcoat and stick with it for the near future. the kit he was trying to sell me was hundreds of $$$ so it made me wonder if i can get a quality product without the high end price?

all your tamco stuff for sale here is cheaper than my local paint store but then again competes with places like eastwood, etc. and you will find people dissing all those places like summit, etc. as being junk product.



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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 7:38 am
Chris, what gun and set up did you use, I shot some HC-2100 a couple of weeks ago and I got more orange peel than I wanted , not bad, but I had to sand a lil more than I wanted to, I used a tekna prolite with a 1.3 tip, I`d say 25-30 at the regulator, ....also would you consider this a soft clear say as compared to ppg 2021

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 7:53 pm
Thanks for the comments.

The gun was a Sata 4000 RP with a 1.4 tip. I honestly don't know the settings, I just pull the trigger and turn the wall regulator until the gun sounds right (wall regulator is around 60 PSI). Generally, wide open fan and nearly wide open fluid.

Regarding avoiding orange peel: This is a very high quality clear and it's important to use the right speed activator for your shop temps. You can also add 5% to 10% slow(er) reducer to keep it open longer, never needs more than that. I would not be able to get this clear to lay as flat as it did with HVLP, it is considered a "medium" solids clear but really at a level of other company's "high" solids.

dmac wrote:i was talking with them about clearcoat because i need some for first time project in a month or so and i think they push the nason system and they have an entry level clear that he was saying is the cheap stuff and can work and last a year or two with abuse or maybe 10 years if you take care of your car whatever that means.

i have never heard this kind of thing before and there are cheap clear kits all over the net. i see many different old vehicles on the road with flaky clearcoat so i was actually going to ask what route to take.


There's nothing wrong with a cheap clear that's spec'd to last a few years - if the company is upfront about it. PPG Omni/Shopline JC620 is an example. Guys know they can use this clear on cars they do for the local used car lot; in Florida the clear will last 5-6 years. Garaged, it'll last longer.

damac wrote:of course the rep had other clears he wanted to push that jumped up in price and he was also telling me that the quality of how it sprayed lasted longer and covered better so the total extra cost vs. the cheap was misleading a bit.

as a newbie it would be nice to pick a clearcoat and stick with it for the near future. the kit he was trying to sell me was hundreds of $$$ so it made me wonder if i can get a quality product without the high end price?


You absolutely can get a high quality clear for 1/4 the price you'd pay for any major brand top-shelf product. The majors spend a very significant percentage of the end product source cost on marketing/sales as well as R&D. Keep in mind that for a big company like PPG and their performance coatings division, the bread/butter is going to be the paint that goes through the robots on the auto assembly lines -- not how much paint they sell to shops or (heaven forbid) DIYers. If PPG can figure out a way to get a car off an assembly line in Detroit with 4 coatings on it instead of 5, they just saved the manufacturer 20% materials cost, equipment maintenance costs, CAPEX, energy costs, materials handling costs, pollution control costs, etc. This is huge money. A big part of what they do is focused on this kind of product development and that gets baked into the price of their products.

Small/unknown companies generally figure out how one of the major's best performing and best selling clear coats are engineered -- then they replicate that and improve it by using higher quality source resins and other materials. It's all they focus on, they are not worried about driving cost out of OEM auto manufacturing.

damac wrote:all your tamco stuff for sale here is cheaper than my local paint store but then again competes with places like eastwood, etc. and you will find people dissing all those places like summit, etc. as being junk product.


I have no idea if Eastwood or Summit is "junk" and since I don't have any personal experience or even solid second-hand information...I can't say anything about those products. One thing I would do before I bought anything would be to search out authentic information from people who have tried it, and also to try to find out if they actually have a plant where they make these products, or if they are relabeling another brand or importing from India/China. I don't know.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 10:03 am
damac wrote:buying materials is so confusing to somebody new like me. you have the catalog companies, the cheap stuff, the expensive stuff and then inbetween. i suppose you guys that lay material like to try different stuff and evaluate it and use what you like first hand?

my local paint store is in a small town and i have somebody that basically is set in their ways and have a product line to push and i already feel i have got some fishy advice more than once :(

i am scared to buy the colors online and planned to get color from the local guy.

i was talking with them about clearcoat because i need some for first time project in a month or so and i think they push the nason system and they have an entry level clear that he was saying is the cheap stuff and can work and last a year or two with abuse or maybe 10 years if you take care of your car whatever that means.

i have never heard this kind of thing before and there are cheap clear kits all over the net. i see many different old vehicles on the road with flaky clearcoat so i was actually going to ask what route to take.

of course the rep had other clears he wanted to push that jumped up in price and he was also telling me that the quality of how it sprayed lasted longer and covered better so the total extra cost vs. the cheap was misleading a bit.

as a newbie it would be nice to pick a clearcoat and stick with it for the near future. the kit he was trying to sell me was hundreds of $$$ so it made me wonder if i can get a quality product without the high end price?

all your tamco stuff for sale here is cheaper than my local paint store but then again competes with places like eastwood, etc. and you will find people dissing all those places like summit, etc. as being junk product.


I would suggest that you cruise the projects section and look at the paint jobs others have done. Find out what they used and go with that for your first paint purchases.
Also remember that quality spray guns do make a difference and having a compressor that can supply the air your gun needs to work properly is also critical.
That being said, for a top quality paint job the most needed thing is practice. Buying good quality and proven paint products takes the "unknown" factor out of the equation. You know the products are not the problem because others are using them and getting great results.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:11 pm
Don't forget when looking at past projects here that Tamco is a very recent addition to conversation at this site.

Here are a couple of pictures from cut & buff today. p1500/p2000/p2500 followed by Wizards turbo cut on a Presta coarse (black twisted wool) pad, then Wizards final cut on a Presta medium (green twisted wool) pad.

That's a couple of steps more than I usually do on a car but this car my son is doing for a friend of his who has been down on his luck a little lately, so we are working together on it to make it special for him.

$400? That's what I saved by using HC-2100 instead of some other brands ;-)

Check out the gloss level (near 100%) and DOI on this finish:

money-shotA.jpg
Why does Ben look so grim?

money-shotC.jpg
Excellent depth and DOI detail.
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