Why not at least "try" a cut and buff on it? Cheap, fast, works to your liking or it doesn't. You'll know if you have to move on to one of the other options....

^^^^ as Darrel said try a section and see how it goes. you should really try and stay with the same product line.. i'm not saying it won't work but it could cause problems, mainly in the flash and dry times and ability to not get the o/p.
Jay D.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:

PainterDave wrote:that whole "flow coat" thing everyone does by over reducing... yeah dont do it.

sand in 800 and mix paint normally then shoot it, the paint will lay down smooth.

over reducing makes paint look smooth any shiny when its wet but after all that extra reducer leaves youre left with a died back ugly mess

Dave, I do this regularly and don't have any problems with it. Do you think the quality of the clear being used could be part of his problem?

My process is to shoot the first couple coats of clear unreduced and allow proper flash time and then shoot a reduced coat over them.

if something is working for you im not anyone to tell you to change it, but when re clearing over 800 the surface is already "slick" and clear flows much better naturally over 800 than it does over basecoat, if you are clearing over wet clear i dont think thats the same as over reducing the whole re clear job if that makes sense. over reducing takes away all your solids and UV when that reducer leaves the clear. have you tried not over reducing ?

I don't over reduce so maybe I misunderstood the previous post.

If a Clear coat says mix 4:1 and may be reduced 4:1:1. I shoot the first 2-3 coats with no reducer at all and then on the final coat add the prescribed amount of very slow reducer.

ah understood buddy, thought you was over reducing