As far as your final blocking at 320, I would read the tech sheet for the sealer and base to see what the manufacturer recommends for the product you plan to apply. It will probably be 400 grit, and maybe even finer if your spraying a metallic. Read the tech sheet for your product to see how they want the surfaced prepped prior to applying their product.
As for SMALL sand through spots, the reduced epoxy as a sealer should seal them. Just make sure it does before spraying the base.
1966 Mustang bodywork and paint help
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Still working on this thing. Do you guys sand the hidden spots before sealer and base? I have some shiny spots still in a few places.
Update: I went ahead and purchased ProSpray HS basecoat with ********** sealers and clear coat. I did a quick job on some pieces that are not noticeable and learned quite a few things. Any help is greatly appreciated. |
I like to use scuffing pads and the 3M scuffing gel for those areas and hard to get at spots. Even on the big flat areas, I use it as it works as a final cleaning. Make sure to use a fresh scuffing pad with clear water to rinse, then use your Solvent W&G remover afterwards. If you are painting any non-metal pieces, follow up with a water based W&G remover, it somehow removes the static charge which helps with the dust and other crap in the air.
Looks good, keep doing what you are doing! Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
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