Metal warped after cutting out rusted panel

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 4:43 am
Thanks for the advice much appreciated! This is a 64 Comet I'm working on and I have another identical 64 comet so I used the laser level to compare the two cars. After 1 measurement it seems that I had the body tacked on to the frame in the correct place after all. I'll have to do some additional measuring to make sure. When I initially attack the body on to the frame the rear end of the car was in the same position it was when I initially started tearing the car down.
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20200701_033159.jpg
20200701_041240.jpg
20200701_034154.jpg
1964 Galaxie 500 fastback 428 FE
1964 Comet Caliente (red)
1964 Comet Pro Street project (under construction)



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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2020 10:34 am
Very cool project! :goodjob: I have a car in similar state with same problem.
Those quarters are Long and the Tail panel is still attached, there is some significant weight there acting on the quarters pulling them down. even if the support is off by only a 1/8 inch that would put a lot of twist into the panels and the body.
An Idea to check your quarter may be to install your Deck lid (Trunk Lid) to see if it sits square opens and closes????? That could also tell you when its level and supported enough?

This Type of work is normally performed on a Chassis Table but can be done on the floor.
a chassis table would make things much easier as you can temp weld in supports where ever you need them. to support the body here and there to get every thing leval and square.

You really are ahead of me the closest project I have to compare too is a 62 Studebaker,
I have the same problem My Quarters Sag as well. My Studebaker project sits waiting while other projects come first. I have some 12 inch I beam about 30 feet long I intend cut up to use to build a chassis table to build the car on.


I am gonna explain how I intend to do mine, It may be the wrong way to do it? I don't know? its just a plan in my head at this time! "Chopolds" would be better to give advice on all of this!!!!! He is a Great Fabricator and custom car builder with Fenominal fabrication skills!

First I intend to build a chassis table to build on.
Then I am going to center the body over the frame side to side and put the rake into the body I want over the Frame then fully support the body in that position level.
Then with the body fully supported over the chassis with the chassis fully supported centered and level then install the doors and the Trunk lid to make sure all is good Before any welding! Then triple check all Before welding the Body to chassis.

Wont do any good if the doors wont open and close or the Trunk lid doesn't sit Square or close. It will be hard to fix once the Chassis is welded to the body permanently.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2020 4:25 am
Thanks Dennis !!
I have actually put the deck lid on the car and the gaps are near perfect, BUT I did not have the weather strip attached.
SO, I ordered the weather strip for the deck lid, windshield, rear glass and hood. Before I go too far I want to test fit all the stainless trim on the front & rear glass, deck lid, etc. As you said, you don't want a 1.5 inch gap in the windshield fitment at the end ! BTW, the hood will be a fiberglass teardrop hood.
I can see where the panel is indented from previous damage...It's tough to see where the car body itself is level, the only place I have to measure is on the door jambs and rockers.
More to come....Thanks again all !!
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20191116_151820 (2).jpg
1964 Galaxie 500 fastback 428 FE
1964 Comet Caliente (red)
1964 Comet Pro Street project (under construction)



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2020 12:48 am
Thats where I was saying with the level But also at front and rear of door Jam Horizontally from one door jam to the other (side to side) Going front to rear you set up your Rake you want the body to have.

A Prior accident would explain the metal being under tension
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2020 3:29 am
Doright wrote:
First I intend to build a chassis table to build on.
Then I am going to center the body over the frame side to side and put the rake into the body I want over the Frame then fully support the body in that position level.
Then with the body fully supported over the chassis with the chassis fully supported centered and level then install the doors and the Trunk lid to make sure all is good Before any welding! Then triple check all Before welding the Body to chassis.


My chassis was custom built by a company in Indiana and when I got the chassis home I put the frame on the yellow jig you see in the pics. My concrete floor is uneven so I adjusted the jig to make the whole chassis level in every direction. I then lowered the body down and centered it on the chassis making sure the body was level with the chassis so my floor pans would be even all around. I plan to add the rake I need by adjusting the 4 link and coil overs to the desired height.
The Studebaker sounds like a great project Dennis and I'd like to see that chassis table when you get it done ! This is my first total build and I want to try to get it right the third time !! LOL I probably over think most of it.....
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20190618_193631.jpg
1964 Galaxie 500 fastback 428 FE
1964 Comet Caliente (red)
1964 Comet Pro Street project (under construction)



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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2020 1:49 pm
A 4 link is adjustable to get the car to launch strait and get the power to the ground while keeping the car going strait. while you may be able to adjust the ride height a little its not really what a 4 link is designed to do.

Basically you need to think about this as an Old school Chop and Channel job.
Dropping the Body down lower over the frame and putting the desired rake into the body without messing with the suspension.

Have you Talked to any of the Guys over at the Hamb??????
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/
There are a LOT of guys over there with a Lot of knowledge they share freely.
Make a simple post with a few pics and I am sure youll have 50 guys that would love to walk you through the process and about the same in wanna bees wishing they could do it cheering you on.

If you do this please post a Link I would like to follow you and the car
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 7:24 pm
Okay got another question, I'm going to replace the whole lower part of the rear quarter panel on both sides of the car. Should the panel be made in one piece or three or four small pieces?
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20200706_191719.jpg
1964 Galaxie 500 fastback 428 FE
1964 Comet Caliente (red)
1964 Comet Pro Street project (under construction)



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 10:05 am
I would do it in one Piece
Are you planning on Mig welding Gas welding or Tig welding the Panel together?
Gas or Tig is Best, the weld bead is softer making it much easier to Plannish the weld bead out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rv5bKXJ3kEM&t=11s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIk5EsYDkiw

Making your Cut what are you using a Cut off wheel or a Body Saw?
I would lay the new panel over the Old panel secure very tightly with Clecoes or sheet metal screws and cut through both at same time to have a perfect fitting Patch panel with zero Gap which is what you want when welding this sheet metal, I like to Fusion weld my panel together using as little rod as possible. make a very clean weld requiring little Hammer work.
https://www.eastwood.com/air-body-saw.h ... RFEALw_wcB

I use a saw very similar to this one it uses a very Thin blades and make a clean cut.
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.



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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 7:06 pm
A panel that long and short would be too flimsy to make. I would make it in three sections then weld them together off the car. Added bonus is if you mess up, then do it again until you get it right. Then and only then decide how you want to cut the old panel off.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2020 3:50 am
Thanks guys,
I plan on gas welding everything together.
I wasn't sure whether to make the panel in sections and weld each section on individually, or make 3 sections, weld them together as one panel and then install the panel...The rear panels are distorted from the rotted out metal but I have another car to copy from. I learned that the body saw is a much better way to cut off the metal if you are gas welding, it seems to me you can get a better and tighter joint.
1964 Galaxie 500 fastback 428 FE
1964 Comet Caliente (red)
1964 Comet Pro Street project (under construction)
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