Has anyone here used this roll on primer? I don’t have a compressor large enough to spray it, and I do t want to build a spray booth in my garage. I think my wife would kill me.

Where are you going to put it? i'm hot-rodding a 31 Chevy pickup and painted the frame and most of all the running gear that's in the clean side of my shop with a brush. it not going to be a show car just a cool driver. i just got the rear axle in last night and have some welding to do on it and then it may get the brush or a shaker can job. PS, i'm looking for a nice right or passenger steel front fender.
Jay D.

I've used a roll-on primer before.

For very small jobs it does mean that there isn't the need to mask up, which saves some time, but you lose quite a lot of product with the roller absorbing most of it.

I found it difficult to get any kind of real build and, of course, the peel is HUGE, meaning more work to sand it all back.

I switched back to a spray gun.

Badsix,

You say a shaker can, do you mean you use spray can (rattle can) paint for spot priming? When brushing on are you using a epoxy 2K and just mix as much as you think you need, or? I know lots of questions, but being new to this and following the guidance here, this one makes me pause

I Look to your or anyone else for a response, because it sure would be easier to cover a portion of a body panel area that has been worked with filler or just metal work until the car is ready for the next coat of Primmer, then on to the primer filler.

TX
Mr fixit_PDX
Chris

The 2K spray can epoxy primer will work, but it has a limited shelf life
once activated so you pretty much need to use the entire can at one
work session.

With roll on primer, you simply mix what you need at the time. Use a
short-nap disposable trim roller to apply. A small throw away brush
will help. Do a search on "roll and tipping" to get info on application
tips.

Jsand160 wrote:...........I think my wife would kill me.

When the wife threatens to kill me, I tell her she will go to prison
and our kid will be parentless. That's worked so far.....

Mrfixit_PDX wrote:Badsix,

You say a shaker can, do you mean you use spray can (rattle can) paint for spot priming? When brushing on are you using a epoxy 2K and just mix as much as you think you need, or? I know lots of questions, but being new to this and following the guidance here, this one makes me pause

I Look to your or anyone else for a response, because it sure would be easier to cover a portion of a body panel area that has been worked with filler or just metal work until the car is ready for the next coat of Primmer, then on to the primer filler.

TX
Mr fixit_PDX
Chris

YOU need to reread my post. i was just relating to the O/P as i'm in a similar predicament. i have an old 31 chevy pickup that's just going to be a year round driver NOTHING SPEACIAL as far as the body goes just smooth and hotrod black. as i said i just put the rear end in and have some welding to do on it then i will paint it. as i also said its in the clean side of my shop so i'll ether just brush black on or just use a shaker can when its ready to get paint. thats all i want is for it to be black. i didn't SEE any talk about filler or spot priming, we really don't know as the O/P hasn't responded to my question of WHERE ARE YOU GOING TO PUT IT.
P/S rolling 2 part primer or epoxy will work, you could use it on a filler area its just going to require a little more effort to get it smooth. but in the end it works. i'm not familiar with hi quality shaker cans for primer, but i do use etch prime and weld through in a shaker can sometimes.
Jay D.

Hi Jay,

I was kind of high jacking the post for my own question after you posted. That was the comment about filler and metal work.
I just saw the last part of your O/P saying "shaker can" and was trying to get information on if you were using it to prime your work as you go along. The black that you use on the frame, is it a 2K paint that you mix for the job or is it another product. This idea of brushing sounds interesting for the underside of my project, which is a unibody car with no frame to work with.

TX
Mr fixit_PDX
Chris

the frame paint i use was some that i bought at a friends garage sale. its called Zero Rust and it satin black i bought 4 gal for a buck each unopened. its really just a synthetic enamel and i'm not sure about the rust property's of it. i use a hardener in it so it dries quick 1-2 hours and makes it much stronger. the color is an exact copy of GM under hood black. you can change the tone a little by how much hardener you use. if you don't catalyze it it takes day or two to dry. it does really hold up good and retains its sheen quite well
Jay D.

What I was thinking about doing was to spot spray areas that I am doing metal work, until I am done with all metal work, (gapping, and panel replacement, etc.) And then sand, scuff the entire body. Then roll on the epoxy primer? Or the urethane primer, (Eastwood’s roll on primer) ?
Block sand, then roll on again before I send off to a painter for final.

Does this process sound correct?

i your particular case it can work. i would experiment with different rollers you don't want a lot of nap to the roller, as it will apply the primer to thick. a real short nap will leave a rather smooth surface and not be to thick. if it happens to not be enough after your first blocking you can always do another coat. for the primers you listed i really can't say, i've never used the Eastwood stuff and don't know what your substrate is or looks like. you usually can't go wrong using epoxy. I would do the first coat with epoxy then guide coat and block with 180, then roll some 2 part urethane primer and finish sand with what ever the shop would like, it or maybe they will want to sand it. if this is going to happen soon you should talk with the shop so your all on the same page.
Jay D.