Im in the process of painting new after market grill & lower fascia.
Both parts are bare plastic, with the exception of the grill rings, which i have sanded down to plastic. The lower fascia is the textured kinda plastic.
This is a small project so i bought all rattle cans.
Bulldog adhesion promoter
Prep all
Spray max 2k epoxy
Spray max 2k clear
SEM black trim paint
SEM high build primer
1 pint of 1k urethane brilliant black to match the grill with body paint.
From all the info i have gathered on this forum, my process should go as follow:
Clean all parts with prep all. Then let air dry and wipe one more time with a clean tack cloth.
Spray a coat of bulldog and let dry for 30 min
Spray 2 light coats of epoxy primer, 5 min between each coat. Then wait 15 min
Spray a coat of high build primer, wait 5 min, sand with 320 grit then spray second coat
Wait 15 min and spray base coat until good coverage waiting 5 min between coats.
Wait 15 min then spray clear.
If this process is correct, my next question is for the lower fascia that is textured. I would like to keep the textured look, so skipping epoxy & primer would be ideal. This area would be the highest exposure to rock chips so would just spray bulldog and then base give me good rock chip protection?
Or would forgetting about the textured look and instead stick to epoxy & primer be the best for the protection against rock chips?
Painting new aftermarket plastic parts
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Cant offer any advise as I have NO experience with Rattle bombs.
One of the Rules of the forum No experience don't reply. Pay special attention to #4
Dennis B.
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist. |
I'd say your flash times are a bit short. Double the between coat times, at least, more if you put it on heavy - which is likely with spray cans.
Was the original lower textured section painted? Is the replacement just black plastic? Can't leave it unpainted? The thinner the total paint thickness the better the paint will stand up to stone chipping. I can't imagine why you'd want to put four coats of primer on a brand new part, covering and filling in the texture. If it must be painted then, if it were me, I'd use 1.5 coats of Cromax 901R/907R (TDS here, then base and clear. Wet-on-wet, the whole job finished in under an hour. Chris
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The original lower textured isn’t painted. I got the idea of painting it from a previous experiment i did last year. The plastic wheel fender & rear bumper plastic had faded due to exposure to sun rays. So i used the SEM trim paint directly on them after cleaning them, and they looked alot better and has held up well so far with no chipping, a year later. So as i am modifying my front area with an upgraded look like the newer models, i wanted to have the same black look instead of the factory dark grey that it is. Only reason i thought 4 coats was because the TDS says apply 2 coats of each. I’ve read many posts where people would put high build primer on top of epoxy primer. So after your advice, i’m assuming the 2k epoxy primer is best because it has flex agent and no high build premier is needed on top of that? For future reference, i’ll purchase the product you recommended as it is of a higher quality. But for now i’ll use what i got. So for the grill it would be, bulldog, epoxy, base then clear. For the lower fascia, bulldog, base, clear? |
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If the parts are new and or sanded with fine grit, 400,then i would just use your bulldog. i believe you can go right over the Bulldog with your color, note i said believe. or use the Bulldog then use your epoxy like a sealer then your color on that. really no need for the primer layers, as Chris said less is better sometimes. i like to prep my plastics with a gray or maroon scratch pad wet with comet cleaner then a wash with soap and water.
Jay D. they say my name is Jay
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Old man , out of date regarding some products, etc. Going to help a new guy paint his fiberglass fenders for a VW. Later entire vegicle. Question is may I use the same epoxy primer sealer on the fenders as the metal of the body?
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Yes, you can.
Metal, wood, fiberglass, we work it all... www.furniturephysicians.com We can restore the irreplaceable!
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