The BIG project thread

Show off your work! Anything from final results to full start-to-finish project journals.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2021 11:41 am
At least all that work finally paid off. Hope it stays that way.
You sure don't have a lot of luck with your daily drivers.

I got my front splash shields but the brackets to hold them don't fit at all. Have to cut them up and add material here and there. Sure would be nice if they made decent repop stuff.
Rob

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 14, 2021 3:51 pm
Sand blasted the TR rear end housing. I used a cheap harbor freight type pressure pot sand blaster. That was pretty frustrating, 90 percent of the time it's either clogged or spewing out media under low pressure, then out of the blue it works like a hot **** for a minute or so :rolleyes:
Rob



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2021 11:34 am
I modified my HF Pressure pot a lot mainly just repairs.
Buying a Good Glass media in 80 grit works well, still had occasional clog straining media through a fine screen helps a lot, filters out big chunks that plug things up.

Was lazy last week didnt work on any cars and this week finds me doing xmass tree lights (OH JOY) then cleaning garage up. (more joy!) Trip to dump even more joy!
Yup tis the season of JOY!



Xmass lights = :knockout: :flatten: :realmad:
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2021 1:40 pm
I had some 100 grit aluminum oxide that came with my blast cabinet. I use glass bead with the cabinet so the other stuff was expendable. Good thing as I went through 100 lbs of it. Even when it was working it was surging a lot. I have no idea why it doesn't fully pressurize most of the time. The media just gushes out, I'm sure 90 lbs came out that way and about 10 when it was working. Probably won't be using that anytime soon.

My wife puts up some outside decorations here and there but no lights. We don't have gutters so the snow would rip the lights off when it slid off. She used to put some along the driveway on pegs but the mice always ate the wire. The good news is I'm off the hook since we moved up here :rockon:
Rob



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 9:30 am
I tried Alum Oxide one time, I didn't care for it too aggressive on metal surfaces.
Just digs in too much.

On my pot I have had to replace all the Valves on it at one time or other and I use a Air pressure Regulator as well.
The bottom media flow valve I barely open and I like to regulate the Air Pressure down.
When it first starts flowing it always blows a Ton of media before actually blasting as the media keeps flowing filling the blast hose even if Dead man is closed so when you open it any media in hose blows out first. If you have the media valve at bottom set right it goes back to blasting fairly quickly.

I generally set up my air pressure then adjust media flow for the Least amount of media I can get a good cut with. media valve ends up at just a crack open.

Like a Blast cabinet with a Siphon gun you should not be able to see your media coming out you just want a fine controlled flow that cleans and strips old finishes and rust.
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2021 10:54 am
The media didn't dig in too bad and being a rear end it's heavy steel. I didn't blast the cover, I'll do that with the glass bead cabinet.

I had it wide open at the bottom, that was probably the biggest issue, thanks for the tip. I'll choke that back next time. Need to paint it next.

I have the right side of the Stang all together and adjusted. Looks like after a bunch of years the front springs dropped a bunch. Was about 3" too high, cut a half loop out a little while ago, dropped a bit and now it dropped a bunch. Might be too low now :knockout:
May end up going with adjustable coil overs, we'll see.
Rob

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2021 7:16 pm
I'm going crazy, can't get the right side door to fit right. It was perfect when I finished body work and primer. Took it apart for paint and the bottom back of door sticks out a 1/4", top is perfect. In theory just adjust the upper hinge out a bit and the bottom would suck in. Problem is top hinge is out as far as it can go and bottom is in as far as it can go. The only thing I can think of is to shim the top hinge out from the body but there has to be a better way. :knockout:

Edit: After 2 days of frustration I had some luck with adjusting the striker. I was about to give up for the day and decided to try the striker which I had done before with no luck. It's 90 percent better, what a relief. I was literally loosing sleep, kept waking up thinking about that wretched door. The pic is the before
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PXL_20211223_230732217.jpg
Rob



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2021 9:51 am
I hate adjusting doors!
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2021 1:44 pm
Yeah me too! Doing it without an extra set of hands doesn't make it any easier. I do have a door cradle that attaches to a jack so that helps a lot.
I got it to this point which I'm pretty happy with. Won't know for sure until I put the fender on.
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PXL_20211224_175009780.jpg
Rob



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 26, 2021 12:35 pm
Thats when the adjusting really starts :flatten:
Dennis Barnett
A&P Mechanic, FCC General radio Telephone Operator
Line Maintenance A&P Mechanic and MOC Tech specialist.
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