Little help with painting interior for first-time.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2022 3:27 pm
Hi all. So I’m working on a complete ground-up resto. (240z race car)

Due to some extreme rust repair and custom fabrication, I have the whole interior down to bare-metal and ready for coating. Here was plan, but would really like your input!

1) need to go back over all the new steel and remove MIg weld splatter with a die-grinder. I skipped this step in the engine bay and it was a mistake. Naturally,?/!6!sanding will cause burn-through over the steel splatter droplets bonded to the sheet metal.

2) sand all the bare metal with 80-grit.

3) clean all interior surfaces with industrial descaler to remove surface rust, oil from my fingers and particulates.

4) wipe-down all interior surface with oil/wax remover followed by windex (for water based salts/contaminants), and a finally a tack cloth.

5) DTM 2X epoxy by Speedokote

6) within 24hrs (max 3-day resorts window) spray silver urethane base-coat (asp by Speedokote).


NOW, here is where I need help. I’m not familiar with whether base-coat MUST be sanded before clear. On the exterior of the car, I would naturally follow every step with appropriate grit sanding but the interior is rife with difficult sanding surfaces and I’m not concerned with interior finish smoothness/clarity. It is a race car after all.

Does anyone else follow this spray regiment? Is it acceptable to spray clear over the base within the typical urethane re-spray period?

There will be no sound deadening or carpet going over the interior after clear.

Would love to hear your tips on refinishing interiors!


PS: for photos and videos of the car, please check out @240z_restomod on Instagram

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2022 6:42 pm
Ahajmano wrote: I’m not familiar with whether base-coat MUST be sanded before clear.


Base coat should NEVER be sanded before clear. Clear must be sprayed within the base coat's application window (refer to TDS) or, if the window has expired, the base would need to be scuffed and one or two coats applied before clearing within the window.

Other than that, your plan seems sound.
Chris



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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2022 7:31 pm
Thanks Chris! I saw the folks at Eastwood wet-sanding the urethane base before applying clear so I assumed that was a standard step. Good to hear I can just lay-down clear as soon as the base is ready for it (per TDS)



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 6:22 am
Might want to investigate what the "industrial descaler" is made of. If it's an acid based product, you will have to neutralize it carefully before using an epoxy on top of it.



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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 10:29 am
Good call. It’s an alkaline salts based descaler. Great at removing surface rust but doesn’t do much for deep rust (unlike acid). If I leave it on until it dries, worst-case is you are left with the powdery salts to clean up. windex seems to cut it and wipe off clean. I have used it to epoxy my engine bay from bare metal and have had no adhesion issues. Sands right down to the metal with no border or chipping. I think the key is to ensure all the residue is removed before applying the primer.

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