Problems with Tamco forever seal?

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2022 1:23 pm
First time using Tamco products.
Truck was stripped to bare metal, bodywork was done. It was then epoxy primed followed with Tamco high build 2k primer.

Truck was blocksanded

Cleaned with w/g remover and window cleaner

The first coat of sealer started to crack/wrinkle in a few spots these spots were also where I accidentally got a few runs (painting in a dark shop, lol).

PXL_20221121_175105908.jpg


I sanded down the runs and areas of cracking paint back down, scuffed the truck since it was past recoat window.

Got some better lighting for the shop and went to respray.

Wiped down with only glass cleaner this time as the truck was not around anything but possibly oils from my person.

I spot primed the repairs with forever seal, then did 2 more coats on the entire truck.

Now I'm getting these weird spots that have come through all the coats as well as the repaired areas are still showing through.

Any ideas?

PXL_20221120_055959933.jpg

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This was sent with the gallon of forever seal. When I go to their website for the TDS it says "coming soon". How, for the life of me, I cannot understand why you would sell a product with no TDS sheet available for it? Anyway, I followed the instructions, mixing 16:1 with harder first, then thinning that out 1:1.
PXL_20221121_174538014.jpg



I have a 50' 1/2 air hose going into a regulator/water trap/desiccant dryer setup with new desiccant, that goes into 50' of 3/8 air hose with high flow fittings.



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2022 2:39 pm
not trying to be negative or stupid maybe, please correct me if i'm out of line., but why the sealer? i see this regularly on here, sealer on everything. its perfectly ok to sand your hi build and apply your color to it. in this particular job the o/p has epoxy then hibuild then 3 coats of sealer, and not done yet. now has to put on color and clear thats thats 6 or more layers of product. sealer to me is an unnecessary product. i don't use it only, when necessary, mis matched Sub straight colors or unprimed areas. to name a few.
Jay D.
i see on the TDS that it says reduce 1-1 BUT it looks like they are talking BASE COAT. but you're mixing your sealer this way. 1-1 reducer seems strange for sealer. NOW, i have never used any of this product.so i may be all WET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2022 3:19 pm
The sealer was used because we block sanded the truck. There where areas of filler, epoxy, and primer of different colors showing through. That's why I was going to put 1 coat of sealer on but I **** up and ran it. Sanded down the areas needing repair and spotted primed them, then scuffed the rest of the truck so I could get an even coat of sealer. After one coat those spots showed up and the repairs showed through. I overmixed the amount of paint and had some in the gun so sprayed a second coat just to see if they would come through again with full intention of sanding back down to fix the problem.

I thought 1:1 was hot for sealer as well, but that's how I read these "instructions". Like I said, NO TDS sheet available from them, just this



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2022 3:27 pm
Well, just read the instructions again and realize it says basecoat. I wasn't thinking basecoat because the hardener was sent to me with the forever seal "kit". So I used the hardener when I wasn't suppose to, along with the reducer. No wonder I had runs. I haven't painted for 2 years so guess I'm a little rusty.....



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2022 7:17 pm
it HAPPENS to all of us. THAT was an appropriate time to use a sealer. so that hi reduction may have attacked your hi build primer coat. did it harden up? can you sand it? when you do sand it does it powder up like other primer? i'm a little worried about places that didn't lift or are on the verge of lifting. if it looks ok, i would sand back any spots that remotely look like they are lifting, sanding back beyond the damage. then spot shoot with the Hi build and block flat then sealer agian mixed right. good luck. things are suppose to go smoothly, but often we lose concentration it happens to all of us some more than others, me its old age.
Jay D.
they say my name is Jay

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2022 9:07 pm
Curious as to why you are using window cleaner?
A quality solvent based wax and grease remover is all you need at this stage. Spray it on and wipe it off before it dries. Wait 30 minutes for it to flash off and you're good to go.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2022 6:02 pm
badsix wrote:it HAPPENS to all of us. THAT was an appropriate time to use a sealer. so that hi reduction may have attacked your hi build primer coat. did it harden up? can you sand it? when you do sand it does it powder up like other primer? i'm a little worried about places that didn't lift or are on the verge of lifting. if it looks ok, i would sand back any spots that remotely look like they are lifting, sanding back beyond the damage. then spot shoot with the Hi build and block flat then sealer agian mixed right. good luck. things are suppose to go smoothly, but often we lose concentration it happens to all of us some more than others, me its old age.
Jay D.


Yea, I ordered my sealer separate from the paint and they included the hardener with the sealer so I just assumed it went with it. It should be sandable, I had to move in to other projects so I'll start with the sanding next week sometime.



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2022 6:04 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Curious as to why you are using window cleaner?
A quality solvent based wax and grease remover is all you need at this stage. Spray it on and wipe it off before it dries. Wait 30 minutes for it to flash off and you're good to go.


Its how I was taught. Wax and grease remover doesn't work well on natural oils from your hands so an ammonia based cleanser is also needed. I don't know if it's true or not, but the cleaner the better I say...

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2022 7:04 pm
Once the 2k primer goes down, all I use is solvent based W&G remover.

I wear nitrile gloves when cleaning with the W&G remover and have NEVER had any issues like what you are experiencing.

Not saying that is what caused your issues but seeing the window cleaner in your cleaning process raised my suspicions.
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2022 12:51 pm
'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Once the 2k primer goes down, all I use is solvent based W&G remover.

I wear nitrile gloves when cleaning with the W&G remover and have NEVER had any issues like what you are experiencing.

Not saying that is what caused your issues but seeing the window cleaner in your cleaning process raised my suspicions.


It was taught to me by Kevin Tetz in a class I took from him about 20 years ago.
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