Did I make a mistake? Or am I on the right track?

General Discussion. Make yourself at home...read, ask and answer!



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2023 7:32 pm
Suh Doo wrote:
myke wrote:From one newb to another I suggest you just start with one panel.Say the trunk lid take it off sand away and see.Im only about $500 ahead of you in my project.The rabbit hole is big!

Yeah, most definitely. Just gonna sand one panel at a time. I'm in no rush, you know?

Been doing lots and lots of research, it appears that block sanding is still the way to go for inexperienced people like me. It looks like using an orbital sander could damage the metal if you're not careful, I'd rather not risk that. So that's what I'll do first, block sand the entire thing one panel at a time and go from there.

Good plan,I just sprayed high build and it sands nice.Im using blk primer for guide coat.Get yourself some dura block sanding pads their sweet.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2023 6:42 am
Suh Doo wrote:Here specifically he mentions to hand sand versus DA/Orbital because hand sanding gives you a much finer sanding job.


Incorrect. He says to use a block because it sands flatter than a DA. You can then use a DA, after the surface is flat, to reduce the coarser scratching from the hand sanding, without changing the flatness of the surface.

Suh Doo wrote:It looks like using an orbital sander could damage the metal if you're not careful,


Unlikely, unless you lean on it too hard or sand for an excessively long time, in one spot.
Chris

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2023 10:50 am
:goodpost: :goodpost: :goodpost: :goodpost:

This metal was media blasted to remove paint, then sanded with 80 grit on a DA to prepare for epoxy primer.

Damage to the metal comes when using a rotary grinder, not a Dual Action Sander.

Rust Pits Media Blasted.JPG
1968 Coronet R/T


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2023 6:10 am
I've noticed this trend before, and need to know why it's recommended: If the body is perfect, as this car looks, then why go through all the trouble to shoot high build primer, and block it out? Lots of work, for no return. If I was doing a relatively new car (yeah, I'm old, and consider anything after 1970, a newer car), that had a good body, with no bodywork, I would strip to bare, epoxy seal and shoot the paint.
Is there any reason that so many guys recommend the high build, if not necessary?
And, yes, I know it' also to look for minor dings, dents, shallows, and pits. I do custom work, with lots of welding, and some filler. So I use it all the time. But when I get an almost new car......



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2023 12:10 pm
I can almost guaranty that with the age and condition that there are dings all over it, not to mention painting it black. i like the hi-build just for the fact that if i have a bare metal panel its nearly impossible to know how flat it really is. with a coat of hi build and guide coat you know for sure. i've had many jobs where the car looked perfect BUT after removing the paint and blocking there were several dings and low spots. i also like the hi-build for the final finish sanding. sure it LOTS of work but thats what separates the good from the not so good.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2023 2:55 pm
I looked around the vehicle, I actually can't find any dents or dings. I'm sure they'll appear once I start sanding.

This car took a beating and got garaged at some point, so I'm just starting to notice stuff.

I just noticed this rust too, so yeah down to metal it is! I didn't think I was going to metal at first, but bought the primer for metal anyways lol. So I guess it was meant to be.

I'm curious though, had I sanded only down to a 320 and started from there, what would've happened to the finished project? Would it not have held up after a short period? (I'm learning a lot, that's why I ask :) )
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2023 3:53 pm
you'll be there a long time trying to sand what top coat OFF thats is still on the car with 320. there is just not a simple way to do this other than to bare metal. trying to save something some top coat , primer or anything just doesn't work. you need at least 80 grit. so by the time you sand the topcoat down to the primer you'll end up with spots all over that are into the metal, a lot of spots. the BEST way is to just finish it down to the bare metal. plus the primer thats been exposed for some time is going to need removed also, its no good anymore.
Jay D.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2023 4:00 pm
badsix wrote:you'll be there a long time trying to sand what top coat OFF thats is still on the car with 320. there is just not a simple way to do this other than to bare metal. trying to save something some top coat , primer or anything just doesn't work. you need at least 80 grit. so by the time you sand the topcoat down to the primer you'll end up with spots all over that are into the metal, a lot of spots. the BEST way is to just finish it down to the bare metal. plus the primer thats been exposed for some time is going to need removed also, its no good anymore.
Jay D.


Yeah I can't thank all of you enough for saving me here, I'd rather deal with it now and spend the extra hours getting it done as close to right as possible the first time around.



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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2023 6:14 pm
Via forums, I see people are back and forth between black and white being the two hardest colors to paint.

Being that I already bought black epoxy primer/sealer
https://a.co/d/hkctdOJ


Is there an easier color you guys recommend that will work with this primer/sealer? I don't mind taking on the challenge of black, but if there's something easier out there that could yield much better results, I will strongly consider it.
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