
Background, I once bought a 2hp 20gal low budget compressor back in school days just to paint a fender. I got a Binks7 gun at a pawnshop and fogged up my mommas basement spraying with that old urethane and buff method.
25 years later (3 years ago) a friend of mine in the business helped me spray a new fender and bumper on my 2004 Tahoe. I watched, I was amazed the quick dry time compared to the old urethane and cook methods, but I did not realize the quality of his compressor. He told me his gun was a $300.00 hvlp that was "decent"... He shot all coats with the same rig. All parts on this job were new purchase prepped parts with whatever black coating they come with. I'm guessing that was a "sealer" cause I think I recall we primed it gray first too..
Now I have another fender to do on this same tahoe which I scrapped from car a guy let me part out from him. But this one is a dark green compared to the silver birch metallic which is what I have to color change it to. I am patient and here is what I am wondering.
1. I got the used fender in really good shape. So it has a serious clear coat which I believe I have to remove before priming out the other color. I don't have a compressor to drive air tools and I sometimes get crazy thinking about it and wonder could I/should I chem stip the whole fender.??? Or would it be better to just get some paper and work the elbow patiently trying to get just the clear coat off??. AND Maybe with the help of an electric vibrating sander carefully applied..? I realize PREP is everything. I am guessing a square vibrating sander is not the best option - but might serve to rip off some clear. I've done more woodwork over the years but I am guessing they make electric orbital palm sanders if absolutely necessary?
2. I'm using a matrix brand product line because that was where he sent me to get supplies the first time. I believe the paint is lacquer type and the clear is basic gloss. I have some understanding of mixing the paint and reducer, as well as the clear and hardener.
3. Now the nasty part. I only have a 2 barrel "tornado" brand compressor that might have a combined 5 gallons and capable of 4 cfm @90psi. Its old and I am not sure if its up to snuff.. Which from basic reads I done is not going to wont get too far before having to hold up for re-charge. I'm guessing I can run the gun for 45 seconds and hold-up for 45 seconds to keep the pressure high enough to complete a fender. I could be wrong. I might even be able to pull the fender off straight up one go if I paint into a litte bit of recharge time. I just dont know how much air the HVLP is going to use..
4. I am even thinking of attempting it all with the HF cheapo purple gun.. The binks is long gone.
Again, I am working a front fender and a bumper that don't even have to be sprayed at the same time. I AM A PATIENT MAN. In my estimation, I can stall out for the compressor to charge back up as much as needed for a single part at a time, and I can work out any issues manually post-facto with the exception of the clear coat application.???
And if you tell me its just not happening with my (basically nailing compressor), then is it even worth purchasing a cheap harbor freight FORTRESS 27gal or the Lowes Kobalt 26gal both in the 400$/4-5,cfm 27gal, range...??? I like the specs of the Fortress 27gallon 200psi tank stated at 5.1cfm, but I like the Kobalt 3 year warranty.
I just seem to recall that the old Campbell House 20gallon never had a problem spraying high pressure urethane on a single fender. I am thinking the real question is can I pull off the HVLP painting with the 2 barrell nail compressor?
Would a pro say "yea I could do it if you wanted to torture me and paid me triple"..?? LOL Or would you say just find a paint guy and see how much he would charge me to pop it real quick - piece by piece. ???
Oh yea, there will be a hood too. Most likely an LKQ purchase which I would assume would come sealed..
Thanks for any help in advance..