Feathering

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2024 12:41 pm
I see no tutorials or a good write-up about feathering. I've read some posts but there are nearly 78 pages of separate threads. Perhaps someone has some pointers.

Question:
Does the clear need to be cut to the base when feathering above the repair area?

I am concerned with applying a base over an area where there is clear, even when it's sanded for adhesion. Isn't there a greater chance of paint delamination when feathered directly over clear?

Scenario:
I would plastic and tape ~6-8 inches above the primed area.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2024 5:08 pm
Can you post a picture of what you are working on?

I like to feather the base coat and then clear the whole panel.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2024 8:05 pm
Some photos. I finished MP170 in early December.

Inner cab is going to be hit with ford blue acrylic rustoenamel, or left as is. Painting the cab pillars, rockers, fenders, and feather doors when they get reinstalled. The box is months down the road.
Attachments
20240211-February-W6_185110264_chrome.jpg
rebuilding fenders, 80 grit
20240211-February-W6_185022937_%pn.png
MP170, 3 coats rockers and inside cab
20240211-February-W6_185007446_chrome.png
80 grit EDP coating to bare metal

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2024 3:24 pm
A lot depends on the materials your are using, the age and color of the paint you are trying to blend to as to whether you will be successful.

There is no one size fits all in this process, which is why you are not getting any responses.

Blending the color into the surrounding panels is one step but the clear coat is another.
Some guys will try to melt the new clear into the old using a solvent. My experience is that those types of repairs generally start to show before long.

If you look at the fender on this Miata you can see where they had once blended the clear:
Front Left Fender fade.JPG


This is why I prefer to clear the whole panel where the blend is made.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 16, 2024 10:46 pm
Great, that aligns with the advice I got from the local shop. I've been diving into videos and articles suggesting ways to blend the base coat with the existing paint, though I can't recall the specific grit of sandpaper they recommended.

The idea of using solvents for clear coat blending was new to me. I've read about lightly sanding the area but have forgotten the exact grit, possibly 600; I have it noted somewhere.

Regarding the fenders, my plan is to strip away as much of the clear coat as I can using 80 grit before applying an epoxy primer. I might leave the top four inches of the fender alone and blend from there. I'm debating whether to continue with MP170 or switch to Tamco. The local shop recommends Omni, citing never having had problems with it throughout his time in business, and he offers lifetime warranties, which speaks volumes about his confidence in the product. He's the second best shop in town.

I suppose rubbing compound and polishing the clear after full cure is another method of blending. Correct me if I'm wrong.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2024 12:20 am
I used Omni once. There's a reason it's cheap.

Where you are spraying over the clear, if it is in good shape< you can use a grey Scotchbrite pad (800 grit) and scuff the surface until it's dull.

For areas where you are stripping 80 is good for bare metal prior to epoxy but if you are only stripping to base or existing primer, then 180 grit will work.
1968 Coronet R/T


ACTS 16:31

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