Will epoxy primer show evidence of poor surface prep, such as fish eyes? Or bad adhesion during block sanding? Or won't I really know until I do the base or clear? Or 6 months later when it bubbles?

I just sprayed my first ever project and it was over a variety of surfaces....bare metal, etched metal, scuffed paint, body filler. I really tried super hard to get the surface properly ready, cleaned several times, scuff paint with 180, metal with 80, neutralized the etch as I used it, used the proper chemicals and cleaners, etc. You know, really tried to follow all the best practices and product instructions. But some of the initial work was done over a year ago by someone who wasn't as careful and knowledgeable (i.e. me, before I really started reading and watching videos)

I sprayed two coats of $P1 epoxy (it's getting bleeped when I use the correct initials) and followed all the instructions. It looks like it's laying down just fine but...well....I still worry I f'd something up.

did you clean right before you sprayed the epoxy?? if not your asking for problems. in day to months anything can get on the surface aerosol products can float over long distances. if your epoxy went on smooth with no defects showing you could be ok. real hard to know just what's going to happen.
Jay D.

Yes, I did go over the entire surface with W&G remover and let it sit to dry for about 1/2 hour and then gently went over it with a tack rag.

I checked on it yesterday (about 48 hrs after the spray) and it looks good. This evening or next I will hit it with the 2k Turbo primer.

make sure you stay in the recoat window if your not going to sand all of it.
Jay D.

Epoxy primer is really the foundation of your paint job. If the old paint is still in good shape then it will seal and protect it. Generally it is best to strip everything to bare metal.

I use the brand you are referring to and it has a 7 day recoat window where you can spray without having to sand. In my opinion spraying build primer should take place on the 2nd or 3rd day just to be safe.

Spray your Turbo primer and wait the required flash times between coats. When it has cured, apply a guide coat (I like 3M dry) and then block sand with 180 grit to just to remove the guide coat. This will reveal if you have any issues that need to be dealt with. If it's close to flat you can shoot another coat or two and repeat the guide coat and 180 block sanding.

Once the guide coat is removed and no bare spots are showing, you can put more guide coat on and block sand with 320 grit just to remove the 180 grit scratches. Then I apply more guide coat and wet sand with 600 grit on a soft rubber block to remove the 320 scratches.

'68 Coronet R/T wrote:Epoxy primer is really the foundation of your paint job. If the old paint is still in good shape then it will seal and protect it. Generally it is best to strip everything to bare metal.

I use the brand you are referring to and it has a 7 day recoat window where you can spray without having to sand. In my opinion spraying build primer should take place on the 2nd or 3rd day just to be safe.

Spray your Turbo primer and wait the required flash times between coats. When it has cured, apply a guide coat (I like 3M dry) and then block sand with 180 grit to just to remove the guide coat. This will reveal if you have any issues that need to be dealt with. If it's close to flat you can shoot another coat or two and repeat the guide coat and 180 block sanding.

Once the guide coat is removed and no bare spots are showing, you can put more guide coat on and block sand with 320 grit just to remove the 180 grit scratches. Then I apply more guide coat and wet sand with 600 grit on a soft rubber block to remove the 320 scratches.

especially on the 2nd or 3rd day recoat. it always scares me about crowding the upper limit and poor adhesion.
Jay D.

Thanks. I'll be doing the 2k primer tonight which is 4½ days since the Epoxy so hopefully should still be fine.

Question for you fellas,

I am starting a project '82 Toyota pickup. I want to drive and enjoy the truck as I do the bodywork and interior. My plan is to strip it down to bare metal panel my panel, get it straight, them apply epoxy primer to the bare metal. I will do this until the entire truck is done and primed.

In the future, (once retired) I will be taking the whole thing apart down to the frame and starting over. So if the truck is primed for a couple years will I have to strip it all down to bare metal again or can I just clean it up real good and sand the old primer before applying color?

Thanks

if you put 2-3 good wet coats on you should be good. what happens with epoxy and most all primers, is they tend to oxidize then wash off. if you didn't put a good coating on, over a few years it soon starts to ware through. if the epoxy is in good condition a few years later you can sand it just like any other sub straight and do what ever you want. take your time and be SURE and prep the metal good. this coat is very important to the start of a good paint job.
Jay D.

badsix wrote:if you put 2-3 good wet coats on you should be good. what happens with epoxy and most all primers, is they tend to oxidize then wash off. if you didn't put a good coating on, over a few years it soon starts to ware through. if the epoxy is in good condition a few years later you can sand it just like any other sub straight and do what ever you want. take your time and be SURE and prep the metal good. this coat is very important to the start of a good paint job.
Jay D.

Thanks for the info. Do you suggest body filler directly to the bare metal of on top of the epoxy?