Here is what i have been doing with the buffing, i've only done one compete car and a Harley tank and rear fender, i also use this on an oem paint job that had some scratches on it. every time it worked amazingly easy. on the car i did it was mine and my boy and i both sprayed it, the clear came out real smooth very slight O/P and very slight wave in places. i wet sanded with a med hard sanding hand pad with 1000 grit Norton paper supposed to be high quality??? this may sound strange but i will tack the car before sanding, one speck of grit can and will destroy your work. i spent a good amount of time with this as we had 4 good coats of clear on. then cleaned the car all off thoroughly then with a good finish DA and a foam interface pad ( Velcro) i used a Trizact 3000 grit pad these are supposedly a diamond grit and about 10.00 a pad. but you can sand a complete car with one pad, i used this wet, don't forget to tack rag it. you can get spend some time with this they cut real good and with 4 coats of clear i wasn't to worried about sanding through, you just need to make sure your getting all the 1000 profile out. i also got a couple 5000 grit pads and i'm not sure its necessary but i went over the big flat areas quickly just to make me feel better. now it needs to be cleaned i washed with soap and water but there are other ways. wet sanding with the pads is messy. once clean and dry i used a 8" med cutting foam pad and some of this then i went to some of this its 3M 05996 Glaze on a polishing pad, be sure to clean off all the residue from the first compound. and when using the 5996 use it sparingly just a few drops on the top of a fender is usually good, maybe a little more when you first start. to much and it will plug your pad you'll have to change it or wash it out. BINGO your done. On the creases, first if i have any problem areas sharp corners, the edges between fenders and hoods, and the creases your talking about, i will cover that immediate area with some masking tape. i know you need to have the buffing wheel spinning the right away from sharp edges, but accidents happen. and an accident at this stage is something you don't want. for the creases like you show in your picture i have a small 3" polisher with 2", 3" and 4" pads from cutting to polishing these work good for areas like in the photo or tight places. my main idea here is don't screw anything up take your time and think about what your doing. HOPE this will help some. Jay D.

I’m surprised the 3000 will cut through the 1000 scratches but I don’t doubt you. I’ve thought about trying to use the DA to wet sand to try and get rid of those deep scratches a little easier when a piece of trash or something gets sanded out and gouges in…those 400 grit type scratches can be a real pain to get out if something gets under the paper. I try listening carefully to make sure I don’t hear that screech and stop immediately if something sounds off to wash it off and reclean my sandpaper in the grit guard bucket. My job goes wet except for the sanding part that’s where I always scratch deep somewhere and it really frustrates me

if your going to try the trizact you'll want a finish DA and a 6" Velcro interface pad.
Jay D.