Ha!
Ok, i'll find out (in Dupont Chromabase)...
Three stage paint
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A man can do all things if he but wills them.
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Yeah that link is screwy, I just copied and pasted it, but it isn't right. The bottom 2 are 43/WA5456 B/C yellow and 79/WA423G yellow tint. I put in Chevrolet vehicles and year-2002 |
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Settled In
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:03 pm Location: Fort Wayne, IN |
Thanks that would be great.
But does anyone know what the yellow tint even is? I'm still not sure if it is something that is supposed to be mixed with a clear or not. Or is it a generic term for a auto manufacturers candy? Would this even be considered a three stage paint job? I'm sooooo confused... I'm just a newb at this whole painting thing. I've only done a couple paint jobs and I have this gut feeling I'm going to ruin this one. It is appearing to be a little over my head, but I'm always up for learning new things. I just didn't want to burn through a thousand dollars worth of paint to learn something new after I mess it up. |
Ok, a tint is just one color/hue (ingredient) in a given paint formula.
There could just be one or five plus tints to a formula. So, the yellow you're after will have yellow tint and maybe a little bit of orange tint, a touch of white tint and maybe a bit of black tint. All these "tints" mixed up will give a certain shade of yellow. A three stage (also a Tri-coat) envolves 3 seperate layers. 1. First layer is generally a solid color (non-metallic). Say white. 2. Second layer is a transparent layer (could be a tinted clear = candy) with an effect to it; kinda like some glitter - sparkly stuff. this layer could be either a transparent basecoat with sparkly stuff or a tinted clear 3. Third layer is just the clear coat. In a two stage paint job (the one you're going for) just leaves out the second layer. So it's some color (base coat) then clear (clear coat). All seperate layers shot seperately. In a single stage paint job it's like the color and clear is mixed together. Shot at one time. I'm no MARTINSR, but i hope it's somewhat "clear." A man can do all things if he but wills them.
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Millennium Yellow
GM Code: 423G Dupont: M0413 Formula (for a pint): Master Tint 841J = 178.4 g (Yellow) Master Tint 845J = 219.8 g (Transparent yellow) Master Tint 801J = 223.8 g (White) Master Tint 807J = 225.9 g (Low Strength black) 150 (Balancer) = 480.1 More info. http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.c ... tints.html All you really need to know is the code (423G). A man can do all things if he but wills them.
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Settled In
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:03 pm Location: Fort Wayne, IN |
Wow thanks Han that is exactly what I've been looking for. My next step was to try and find a yellow 2000 corvette that someone would be willing to let me look at their RPO sticker.
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Settled In
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:03 pm Location: Fort Wayne, IN |
Ok one last question:
is this a good price for PPG paint? Or am I getting ripped off? This is for a gallon of the above paint codes. DBU (Assuming single stage) - $551 w/tax DBC( Assuming BC/CC) - 435.87 W/Tax And for a painting noob which would you recommend? It's not going to be metallic just a single color. |
Fully Engaged
Posts: 101
Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:02 am Location: Waco, TX |
As a fellow Fiero owner (I'm about to paint mine as well, 85 GT), you can understand this: that price per gallon is more than I paid for the car. lol.
Have you considered "other" yellows? For example, ********** (please, no flame wars) has a Screaming Yellow, for somewhere around $150/gallon. That's much more "palatable" to the wallet... I chose SPIs Viper Blue for my Fiero. I've already got it, shot a practice hood, and it's a nice color. I'm looking forward to the all-over. I hope to have at least the front panels painted by next month... getting the existing 5 layers of paint/primer off the nose is being a pain... |
Settled In
Posts: 15
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:03 pm Location: Fort Wayne, IN |
I thought about a cheaper brand of paint, but I really want this paint job to last. So that's my reasoning for going with a good paint.
I only paid $200 for my car as well.. LOL... But have already sunk about $2000 into it and haven't even driven the thing since I bought it. Had to have it towed to my house and have been working on it ever since. Engine rebuild, Front suspension rebuild, rear suspension rebuild, and fixing the major rust problem that I have. I haven't even started the piddly stuff yet. That's probably gonna soak me for another 6 or 7 hundred or so. |
Fully Engaged
Posts: 101
Joined: Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:02 am Location: Waco, TX |
I'm not highly experienced with paint, but so far the ********** stuff seems very nice for a newbie to work with. I've been painting my Camaro with it, and things are turning out very nice.
Another thing to consider is that Basecoat is just one little piece... you'll also need a primer, likely a clear, a pretty fair amount of reducer, etc... When I bought my Viper Blue, even though it was $175/gal, I spent about $800 on "stuff" on that order. High build primer, epoxy, clear, activators, reducer, W&G remover... And as I look at my dwindling supply, I keep wondering about a re-order... My own stupidity and desire to shortcut stuff is my paint's worst enemy. I think a patient methodical person with some OK paint would turn out a much better job than someone that shortcuts the job using the most expensive stuff available. Just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's the best... But, post up some pics when ya get the chance. I'll do the same later. My car is only 5 colors right now. |
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